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The Golden Spike
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Sheep's Nose
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10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Culling The Herd S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost in Space Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R |
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Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Sheep Dipped S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sheep's Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Surplus Killing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Steve Cheyney |
| Page Views: | 926 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Jerousek on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a short, South-facing route you'll encounter on your walk back to the base of Lost in Space from the rappels. It climbs a flared, left-facing dihedral in the off-fingers to tips width, to a walkoff.
Start in a pod with stemming on good feet, and plug your biggest piece. Stem and finger lock up to where the crack tapers into a seam. Make a thuggish move to the "Golden Spike", and get your rest. Moving off the spike may be the crux. From there, we pinched crystals and crimped straight up to gain the right-leaning finger crack above. Note that there is an obvious alternative (maybe original finish??) in the #5-6 offwidth to the left.
Pull over the crystals (or OW) onto a large, clean ledge with a horizontal crack. Either belay your second from here on small gear, or continue around climber's right to the easy-5th hand crack and go up for another 15'.
Descent: scramble off climber's left from the upper ledge.
Start in a pod with stemming on good feet, and plug your biggest piece. Stem and finger lock up to where the crack tapers into a seam. Make a thuggish move to the "Golden Spike", and get your rest. Moving off the spike may be the crux. From there, we pinched crystals and crimped straight up to gain the right-leaning finger crack above. Note that there is an obvious alternative (maybe original finish??) in the #5-6 offwidth to the left.
Pull over the crystals (or OW) onto a large, clean ledge with a horizontal crack. Either belay your second from here on small gear, or continue around climber's right to the easy-5th hand crack and go up for another 15'.
Descent: scramble off climber's left from the upper ledge.
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