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Routes in Penon d'Ifach
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Costa Blanca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mare Nostrum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Polvos Magicos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Via Pany T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 720 ft (218 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 38.63492, 0.07446 |
| FA: | Salas Panyella |
| Page Views: | 1,966 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Phil Brown on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
Permits can be procured day of assuming there are any left. There are usually no permits available day-of on the weekends so plan ahead.
According to signage the fine for violating the permit restrictions is 600-6000 euros. I assume this goes for people who come up a route like Diedra UBSA that doesn't require access to the main path but descends it. There were people at the base of the wall by 9am checking permits.
Description
An easy route on the shady north face of the Penon, usually done in seven pitches. The Rockfax guidebook rates it Very Severe in the British scale. This translates to 5.7 or 5.8 in the Yosemite Decimal System, but I thought it was more like 5.5 or 5.6. Most of the climbing is on clean rock, but there is some scrambling on vegetated ledges.
P1: Ascend chimney, then climb bulge on the right to a spacious ledge.
P2: Easy climbing, scrambling up a right-rising ramp to a large ledge. (It ends on top of a pyramid-shaped buttress, a feature recognizable from the hiking trail. The route begins at the base of the left side of the pyramid.)
P3: Climb up about 35 feet, then traverse left on a narrow, discontinuous ledge about 20 feet.
P4: Climb up and right to a good ledge. Rockfax considers this the crux.
P5: Mostly easy climbing up a right-rising ramp.
P6: Straight up past a bulge, then angle up and left. I thought this pitch as hard as P4.
P7: Climb up a crack and a rib, finishing on top of the Penon.
Click the following link for an account of climbing Via Pany.
adirondackexplorer.org/outt…
Location
Take the hiking trail most of the way to the tunnel. As you ascend the trail, look for a large pyramid-shaped feature. The route begins a short distance off the trail at the lefthand base of the pyramid. Look for a chimney-like feature; this is the start (see beta photo). Via Pany ends on top of the Penon. Descend via the hiking trail.
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