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> 03. Portneuf
> Vallée du Bras…
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> 2. Centre
L'Examen final
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 8
votes
Routes in 2. Centre
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Botte Secrète T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Botte-Toé'l Cul T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Crissagus monumentalum T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Désobéissance Civile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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L'Examen final T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La correction T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Le bureau du directeur T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Le Chat Botté T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le refus global T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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L’examen de rattrapage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Magie Blanche T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Plein Gâz T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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À en perdre son Latin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Fred Desgranges and LP Tessier 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,518 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Guillaume Dorion on Sep 23, 2017 |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Access Issue: Variable Hunting season - Saison de chasse variable
Details
Le site est fermé durant la chasse à l'arme à feu qui est du samedi 30 septembre 2023 au dimanche 15 octobre 2023 inclusivement.
Ce site d'escalade est situé sur un terrain privé qui est englobé par la ZEC, mais avec des dates de chasse souvent différentes de celles de la ZEC. Le propriétaire du terrain nous a averti, si lui ou ses amis nous voient passer sur son terrain durant ces dates, il va remettre en question notre accès. Alors, de ne pas y aller pendant la chasse est un moindre mal en échange d'un accès libre le reste de l'année.
The site is closed during the firearm hunting season, which extends from Saturday, September 30, 2023, to Sunday, October 15, 2023, inclusively.
This climbing area is located on private land that is covered by the ZEC, but with hunting dates that are often different from those of the ZEC. The landowner has warned us that if he or his friends see us on his land during these dates, he will question our access. So, not going during hunting season is a lesser evil in exchange for free access the rest of the year.
Ce site d'escalade est situé sur un terrain privé qui est englobé par la ZEC, mais avec des dates de chasse souvent différentes de celles de la ZEC. Le propriétaire du terrain nous a averti, si lui ou ses amis nous voient passer sur son terrain durant ces dates, il va remettre en question notre accès. Alors, de ne pas y aller pendant la chasse est un moindre mal en échange d'un accès libre le reste de l'année.
The site is closed during the firearm hunting season, which extends from Saturday, September 30, 2023, to Sunday, October 15, 2023, inclusively.
This climbing area is located on private land that is covered by the ZEC, but with hunting dates that are often different from those of the ZEC. The landowner has warned us that if he or his friends see us on his land during these dates, he will question our access. So, not going during hunting season is a lesser evil in exchange for free access the rest of the year.
Description
P1 5.10a 70'
Up a ramp and transition to a flared finger crack. Short but intense. Warms you up properly for the next amazing 4 pitches.
P2 5.11b 100'
Money pitch. Up the corner. When I did it the bottom part was a waterfall. Apparently it's usually dry.
Up to roof, than a powerful layback to a belay ledge. Pumpy.
P3 5.10
Finger crack/layback to a big chockstone. Climb around it after a tree to the belay ledge at the base of the massive corner.
P4 5.12a
Money ! Climb the big dihedral. Stem your way up a corner that wants to eat you. It's beautiful. Climb up to a bolt than keep going to a another bolt to the right where you need to traverse. Than place a key blue TCU and climb to the anchor below the arch.
P5 5.10+ 150'
Amazing crack climbing straight up to a massive left angling offwidth arch.
It's a long pitch.
Up a ramp and transition to a flared finger crack. Short but intense. Warms you up properly for the next amazing 4 pitches.
P2 5.11b 100'
Money pitch. Up the corner. When I did it the bottom part was a waterfall. Apparently it's usually dry.
Up to roof, than a powerful layback to a belay ledge. Pumpy.
P3 5.10
Finger crack/layback to a big chockstone. Climb around it after a tree to the belay ledge at the base of the massive corner.
P4 5.12a
Money ! Climb the big dihedral. Stem your way up a corner that wants to eat you. It's beautiful. Climb up to a bolt than keep going to a another bolt to the right where you need to traverse. Than place a key blue TCU and climb to the anchor below the arch.
P5 5.10+ 150'
Amazing crack climbing straight up to a massive left angling offwidth arch.
It's a long pitch.
Photos
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