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> Grub Street
Agonal
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 13
votes
Routes in Grub Street
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Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cider Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cling Peaches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grub Street T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rosebud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sodbuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Robin Barley and Peter Shackleton. 1996 |
| Page Views: | 1,597 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | kiff on Sep 21, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Some great, well protected face climbing along the dike. Prepare thy dancing shoes for battle.
P1: Start up the corner from the logs, then steer right along the infant dike. Belay at right most ring-bolt-thingy 5.10
P2: Move along the overlap/roof, following the bolts rightwards. A tough sequence gets your feet above the overlap. Make your way daintily across the dance floor to double bolts. 5.11
P3: Continue along the dike and make a long reach straight up to gain the flake. A couple small pieces (red C3) help protect between the bolts. "Walk" right to the slab and make your way to the top of the buttress.
P1: Start up the corner from the logs, then steer right along the infant dike. Belay at right most ring-bolt-thingy 5.10
P2: Move along the overlap/roof, following the bolts rightwards. A tough sequence gets your feet above the overlap. Make your way daintily across the dance floor to double bolts. 5.11
P3: Continue along the dike and make a long reach straight up to gain the flake. A couple small pieces (red C3) help protect between the bolts. "Walk" right to the slab and make your way to the top of the buttress.
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