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> Punta Delle Cinque Dita
Cobra and Guglia Cristiana
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Routes in Punta Delle Cinque Dita
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Cobra and Guglia Cristiana S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fünffingerspitzen Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Normal Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Thumb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Via Amerigo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Via Sonia (Spigolo Ovest) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mauro Bernardi |
| Page Views: | 1,705 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | RKM on Sep 15, 2017 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
Take the cable car from Sella Mountain Resort to the notch and Demetz Hut. Approach is listed in the Bernardi Guide as '45 seconds from the hut door'. This is a good multi pitch route with raps back to your pack at the base.
Many 1 pitch sport routes are in the area - most with bright shinny blue metallic bolts. This route has regular silver bolts.
After four pitches, a 50' rap is needed off the back side of the Cobra down to a horizontal cable - semi hanging belay. The second part of the climb (or second climb - Cristiana) starts from this belay.
The rappels go down from the top tower to climbers left. After two raps, use the horizontal cable to go further left (west) to the end and continue rapping. Note: Not a great descent for a first timer, and exact 50 meter rappels. Caution.
Many 1 pitch sport routes are in the area - most with bright shinny blue metallic bolts. This route has regular silver bolts.
After four pitches, a 50' rap is needed off the back side of the Cobra down to a horizontal cable - semi hanging belay. The second part of the climb (or second climb - Cristiana) starts from this belay.
The rappels go down from the top tower to climbers left. After two raps, use the horizontal cable to go further left (west) to the end and continue rapping. Note: Not a great descent for a first timer, and exact 50 meter rappels. Caution.
Location
Just out the door from the Demetz Lift Station on the south facing wall of the Sassolungo Group. Opposite the Thumb Route.
Protection
A new bolted line (not necessarily sport - sometimes 3 bolts per pitch). After four pitches to the top of the Cobra, a 50' rappel goes down the back side to a horizontal cable. A semi hanging belay from there leads via two longer pitches to the top of the Cristiana. Rappel from climbers left (west) down to the cable, traverse the cable left (west) to its end and continue rappeling down to the ground. Note: Rappels are 50 meters - exact sometime. Caution if you have a 50 meter rope.
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