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> Valley of The C…
> Chicken Rock
Unknown 5.8 Crack
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Chicken Rock
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5.7 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Checkenhead Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Down on My Cluck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Just Flew the Coup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Osteofight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 10- S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 829 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Evan C on Sep 14, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
My opinion of this route may be a bit marred because of the nesting hornets in every decent gear placement. This reduced me to a sniveling coward halfway up without any good gear...I think the climb would have been a more enjoyable experience otherwise.
Climb the steep, dual-crack system that starts with some bushwhacking. You'll start out in the flared right-hand crack and then traverse into the smaller left crack at some point. I thought traversing into the left crack was fairly committing but pretty easy once you just buckle down and do it.
Climb to the end of the steep crack systems, and continue on easier terrain slinging chickenheads or plugging more gear along the way to the bolt and chain anchor. The anchor should be visible from the ground if you step back a bit.
Climb the steep, dual-crack system that starts with some bushwhacking. You'll start out in the flared right-hand crack and then traverse into the smaller left crack at some point. I thought traversing into the left crack was fairly committing but pretty easy once you just buckle down and do it.
Climb to the end of the steep crack systems, and continue on easier terrain slinging chickenheads or plugging more gear along the way to the bolt and chain anchor. The anchor should be visible from the ground if you step back a bit.
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