[Hide Comment] This is a really great stemming corner with a wild traversing finish that will be way classic with more traffic. Both my partner and I fell breaking holds, but still came away raving about the quality of this pitch.

A lil' more betas:

Currently the corner has many fixed pins and wires, and so long as they remain a single run of cams from small to #1 Camalot is more than you'll need (and many, many draws or single 'biners).

When you rap from the crux pitch, you'll end up on the belay ledge at the base of it - the top of the pitch doesn't traverse right quite as far as the topo suggests. We had thought that we'd have to reverse the loose "5.4" scramble rightwards, but there is a massive slung flake on the ledge from which a short rappel straight down will bring you to the same 3rd class ledge system shared with the dedicated rap anchor way to the right. That station, btw, is fixed wires and facilitates a final 60+m rappel down to the ground. An enterprising individual might bolt an intermediate station below this - then the whole route could be rapped with a single 80m rope (easily) or with a single 70m rope (employing some trickery).

Anyone who goes up there should come equipped with some quicklinks and fresh tat to fix up the anchors throughout.

BTW: I get the pragmatic reasons for developing FA's with pins and fixed wires, but they really aren't sustainable - especially in an alpine environment like this where the pins loosen with freeze/thaw cycles, and in a few years the wires are rusted junk. Jul 27, 2019