Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> Australia
> Victoria
> Grampians
> Mt Stapylton
> Mt Stapylton Am…
> Taipan Wall
Mr Joshua
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 8
votes
Routes in The Taipan Wall
|
|
Serpentine T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Fisting Party T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Mr Joshua T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Anaconda T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
|
|
Seventh Pillar, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,678 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 5, 2017 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This amazing route is the most accessible (and thusly most popular) route on the Taipan Wall. Unfortunately, most will only do the first pitch (give yourself 25) for the sake of convenience, but the second pitch (you've earned the 26) is just as good with an exciting dyno and techy moves up an exposed arete to the top of the wall.
Begin at the far right end of the belay ledge (anchoring your belayer is a good idea) and clip bolts up steep, juggy rock interspersed with good rests. An awkward and committing move leads out to the arete, which is shortly thereafter followed by the crux (12a). A few more powerful sequences lead up and left to an anchor in an amazing belay alcove. Most lower from here, but it is possible to continue climbing into the second pitch if you've runnered your gear well (though perhaps more prudent to bring your belayer up to this airy perch with you).
The second pitch begins with the true crux (12b) - a toss or massive span to a huge jug. Above this lie three more bolts of thin, pumpy climbing (and a devious sequence) up a wildly exposed arete. An anchor at the top of the wall will allow you to lower back to the belay alcove and then again to the ground.
Begin at the far right end of the belay ledge (anchoring your belayer is a good idea) and clip bolts up steep, juggy rock interspersed with good rests. An awkward and committing move leads out to the arete, which is shortly thereafter followed by the crux (12a). A few more powerful sequences lead up and left to an anchor in an amazing belay alcove. Most lower from here, but it is possible to continue climbing into the second pitch if you've runnered your gear well (though perhaps more prudent to bring your belayer up to this airy perch with you).
The second pitch begins with the true crux (12b) - a toss or massive span to a huge jug. Above this lie three more bolts of thin, pumpy climbing (and a devious sequence) up a wildly exposed arete. An anchor at the top of the wall will allow you to lower back to the belay alcove and then again to the ground.
2 Comments