Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches
FA: 2013 Banff Climber's Club
Page Views: 3,083 total · 33/month
Shared By: Edgar Klein on Sep 4, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route climbs really nice and pretty solid rock. Some rock fall cannot be avoided though.

Pitch 1: (5.5, 6 bolts, 20m)
Same as Plutonian Shores.

Pitch 2: (5.7, 17 bolts, 55m)
Same as Plutonian Shores.

Pitch 3: (4TH class scramble, 2 bolts, 10m)
Scramble up and right to the anchor. Optionally, you can traverse to this point directly from Raven's Crag (see second option).

Pitch 4: (5.10b, 19 bolts, 40m)
Even though this pitch is pretty low angle, it's pumpy and technical moves will definitely wake you up, if you weren't before.

Pitch 5: (5.10c, 9 bolts, 30m)
Traverse diagonally up and left under an impressive arête. Good handholds and squeezing your body under the arête makes the climb not only a lot of fun but also easier than it looks.

Pitch 6: (5.10d, 11 bolts, 30m)
Climb this steep, pumpy, and pretty sustained flake system. The crux is where the flake becomes more narrow -- rest whenever you can.

Pitch 7: (5.7, 7 bolts, 35m)
Low angle and easier climbing leads to a medium size smooth face -- height can be of advantage to climb onto it.

Location Suggest change

Take the same approach as Plutonian Shores. Hike to Raven's Crag and before hiking up really steep to the right -- just before Raven's Crag -- take the little trail left down and follow for a few minutes until the path flattens out and you see bolts on the rock (Pitch 1).

As a second option, you can hike up to Raven's Crag, cross the crag and start traversing over 4TH class scramble (5 bolts on the traverse). When you can see the anchor of Pitch 2 quite far on the left, look up and a bit right, you should see the anchor of Pitch 3, just scramble up using the 2 bolts to get to the anchor.

After pitch 7, don't rappel down due to rock fall. This final anchor is shared with Plutonian Shores. Walk off to the left and up and eventually following the path to the back of the mountain. Follow the cairns down -- same as Plutonian Shores.

Protection Suggest change

Bring 20 or more quickdraws, definitely you will need at least a hand-full of long ones. I used slings and extended them when needed -- came in really handy. I wouldn't recommend to link pitches, except 2nd and 3rd with a 70m rope) because of the drag.

Photos

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