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Routes in Mount Hooker
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All Grown ups are Pirates T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Betwixt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cache Pirates T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gaff, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Gamblin' in the Winds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Hook, Line, and Sinker (aka the Free Boissonneault-Larson) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Jaded Lady T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Optimist (The Nolan Smythe Memorial Route), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Original Sin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sendero Luminoso Free T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shady Lady T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 14 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell |
| Page Views: | 4,608 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Huey on Sep 3, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
August of 2017 Maury Birdwell and I traveled to Mount Hooker to try and free climb the original 1964 Royal Robbins, Dick McCracken, and Charles Raymond North Face. Original Sin follows the 1964 route for 4.5 pitches where we found a "bolt/rivet" ladder hooking hard left around the prow to where the Robbins team traversed into the upper wide corners of what is now the Jaded Lady. We gave ourselves 11 days including travel, hiking, and rest to see if it would come together. We led every pitch ground up, trying to freeclimb onsite. We were thwarted in this strategy at the 4th pitch, being a steep overhanging corner system protected almost entirely on blades and beaks (which we fixed) for future ascents.
Original Sin follows one of the most obvious crack systems found on the prow of Mount Hooker. It encompasses all types of climbing, steep cracks, stem corners, boulder problems, slabs, and the occasional wide bits. This route is sure to become a classic.
As a side note: Maury and I will be in touch with the authors of the 1964 route to gain permission to add 3 bolts to the crux pitch, which we led entirely on beaks. Having climbed on Hooker before I have experienced the freeze thaw cycle and experienced many a pin pull out on me mid crux. Placing 3 bolts and removing all of the pins/beaks would assure that the pitch wouldn't become scared up from over hammering. I was very sad to see one of my pitons chip away a bit of rock at the end of what was a very hard crux sequence leaving a perfect crimp where there was once nothing.
Original Sin follows one of the most obvious crack systems found on the prow of Mount Hooker. It encompasses all types of climbing, steep cracks, stem corners, boulder problems, slabs, and the occasional wide bits. This route is sure to become a classic.
As a side note: Maury and I will be in touch with the authors of the 1964 route to gain permission to add 3 bolts to the crux pitch, which we led entirely on beaks. Having climbed on Hooker before I have experienced the freeze thaw cycle and experienced many a pin pull out on me mid crux. Placing 3 bolts and removing all of the pins/beaks would assure that the pitch wouldn't become scared up from over hammering. I was very sad to see one of my pitons chip away a bit of rock at the end of what was a very hard crux sequence leaving a perfect crimp where there was once nothing.
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