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Harrington Couloir

3rd AI2 Mod. Snow, Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), Grade III,  Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: Bob Harrington, early 1980s
California > High Sierra > 08 - Bishop Pas… > Mt Thompson

Description

A moderate snow/ice climb up the 3rd prominent couloir from the left as seen on the approach. Max angle of ~50 degrees near the top. From the top of the couloir, walk north for 10 minutes across the summit plateau to the final 20' 3rd class rock scramble to the summit.

Location

There are 4 prominent couloirs on the North Face of Thompson. A cluster of 3 couloirs sits on the left side of the face, and the Harrington Couloir is the rightmost of these 3.

Protection

Depending on conditions, snow pickets, ice screws, and/or some rock protection could come in handy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Harrington Couloir
[Hide Photo] Harrington Couloir
Looking down the N Ridge descent of Thompson. Tricky start, but after that it's quite easy. The red X marks where you can leave the ridge and descend to back to where you started.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the N Ridge descent of Thompson. Tricky start, but after that it's quite easy. The red X marks where you can leave the ridge and descend to back to where you started.
Looking to the summit from above Harrington & Smrz couloirs.
[Hide Photo] Looking to the summit from above Harrington & Smrz couloirs.
S.T. on the North Ridge descent.
[Hide Photo] S.T. on the North Ridge descent.
Near the top of the Harrington Couloir - 20 June 2020.
[Hide Photo] Near the top of the Harrington Couloir - 20 June 2020.
Sean T. coming up the Harrington Couloir - 20 June 2020.
[Hide Photo] Sean T. coming up the Harrington Couloir - 20 June 2020.
Harrington Couloir - 20 June 2020
[Hide Photo] Harrington Couloir - 20 June 2020
The long summit ridge of Thompson. The X marks the top of the Harrington route. May 2012
[Hide Photo] The long summit ridge of Thompson. The X marks the top of the Harrington route. May 2012
Skiing the Harrington Couloir on Mt. Thompson
[Hide Photo] Skiing the Harrington Couloir on Mt. Thompson
Skiing the Harrington Couloir on Mt. Thompson
[Hide Photo] Skiing the Harrington Couloir on Mt. Thompson
Topping out the Harrington Couloir in spring pow conditions (and poor visibility)
[Hide Photo] Topping out the Harrington Couloir in spring pow conditions (and poor visibility)
Climbing the Harrington Couloir in less-than-ideal visibility
[Hide Photo] Climbing the Harrington Couloir in less-than-ideal visibility

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alois Smrz
Idyllwild, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The descent is not mentioned on this page. There might be a rap route in this Harrington Couloir put up in the early 2000s, but the original descent, the Thompson Ridge is quite involved. There is some technical down climbing on the Thompson Ridge, be careful. Someone could comment on the rap route... May 29, 2024