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> Amphitheater
Mammary Lane
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 9
votes
Routes in Amphitheater
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FNG S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Imaginary Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Imaginary Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Election Night T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Polio Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Violet Hour T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crimson Sky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long-stemmed Rose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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I Hear My Train A-Comin’ T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mammary Lane S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Happy Boyfriend S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corner Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Scott Flavelle |
| Page Views: | 997 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Aug 27, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
This appears to be a recently added sport climb between the trad lines Corner Journey and I Hear My Train A-Comin' at The Amphitheatre Wall. It does not appear in the 2017 edition of Bow Valley Sport by Derek Galloway. The Banff Rock guidebook by Chris Perry shows a 5.10a R trad route in this vicinity called Mammary Lane, so perhaps this is a retro-bolted version of that originally ill-protected line.
A few strenuous undercling moves are required to pass a minor roof at the start. This felt like the crux. Thoughtful, steep, and fun, 5.9/5.10a climbing leads to the anchor. The second to last bolt seems awkwardly placed far left of the natural line, and getting to it feels a bit dicey. A fall here would mean penduluming with your feet several feet higher than the last bolt. These moves can be protected by a bomber finger sized cam placement in a horizontal crack.
A few strenuous undercling moves are required to pass a minor roof at the start. This felt like the crux. Thoughtful, steep, and fun, 5.9/5.10a climbing leads to the anchor. The second to last bolt seems awkwardly placed far left of the natural line, and getting to it feels a bit dicey. A fall here would mean penduluming with your feet several feet higher than the last bolt. These moves can be protected by a bomber finger sized cam placement in a horizontal crack.
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