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Voie des Suisses - exit O Sole Mio
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 4 from 10
votes
Routes in Grand Capucin
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Voie des Suisses - exit O Sole Mio T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le Voyage Selon Gulliver (+ 4 pitches of «Elixir D’Astaroth») T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Elixir D'Astaroth T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 |
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Bonatti-Ghigo T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,069 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 19, 2017 |
| Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
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Description
Sustained interesting route up to a mythic summit. The least difficult route up a tower with no easy routes.
. . (difficulty in French guidebooks / websites is usually given as III TD+ 6a).
The full classic route has a difficult finish (5.10d whose hardest sequence could be aided but still leaves some 5.10b sequences). More parties nowadays finish on the route O Sole Mio (starts to left of "Suisses") whose climbing in its upper pitches is at least as interesting as on the full route, but not as difficult.
Getting to the start is on snow / ice, requires crossing a bergschrund (FR "rimaye") or double bergschrund -- normally gets more difficult later in the season (and often with each succeeding year as warming continues). So bring equipment + skill for "engineering" across it (minimum is ice axe + cfampons) -- and check in advance to find out if crossing it is even possible. Returning likely is by rappeling over the bergschrund(s) in softer snow/ice requiring different experience + skill to accomplish safely.
Route:
Descent: Rappel (abseil) with two 50-meter ropes required (usually using belay/rappel stations for a route(s) to the right (but perhaps could be done with belay/rappel stations on the route O Sole Mio to the left).
. . (difficulty in French guidebooks / websites is usually given as III TD+ 6a).
The full classic route has a difficult finish (5.10d whose hardest sequence could be aided but still leaves some 5.10b sequences). More parties nowadays finish on the route O Sole Mio (starts to left of "Suisses") whose climbing in its upper pitches is at least as interesting as on the full route, but not as difficult.
Getting to the start is on snow / ice, requires crossing a bergschrund (FR "rimaye") or double bergschrund -- normally gets more difficult later in the season (and often with each succeeding year as warming continues). So bring equipment + skill for "engineering" across it (minimum is ice axe + cfampons) -- and check in advance to find out if crossing it is even possible. Returning likely is by rappeling over the bergschrund(s) in softer snow/ice requiring different experience + skill to accomplish safely.
Route:
- Topo diagram for route (bottom of page) - [mdettling.blogspot.ch/2014/06/grand-capucin-schweizerfuhre-6b.html]
- Text description in French
- English-language text description of full classic Voie des Suisses route - [www.camptocamp.org/routes/57799/en/grand-capucin-voie-des-suisses]
- printed topo + English description in guidebook Chamonix, by Charlie Boscoe (Rockfax.com 2016) page 274-275.
Descent: Rappel (abseil) with two 50-meter ropes required (usually using belay/rappel stations for a route(s) to the right (but perhaps could be done with belay/rappel stations on the route O Sole Mio to the left).
Location
Bottom of route or bergschrund crossing around GPS latitude longitude (N45.8513 E6.8996). Reached from the flat part around (N45.8503 E6.9051) of the big glacier around Combe Maudit (with significant crevasse-fall hazard).
For ideas about how to reach Combe Maudit, see under Getting There section on Grand Capucin area page.
For ideas about how to reach Combe Maudit, see under Getting There section on Grand Capucin area page.
Protection
Two-bolt anchors at belay stations. Some intermediate bolts for leading on slab sections. But where the rock offers a Trad gear placement, you're expected to place your own gear. So bring a normal alpine Trad protection rack.
Two ropes for descent by rappels - (there's no other way down off).
Two ropes for descent by rappels - (there's no other way down off).
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