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> Rex's Pillar (Slalok)
Stonecrop Face
AI1-2
Avg: 2.5 from 2
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1970 ft (597 m), Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 833 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Bowes on Aug 14, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
From Kevin McLane's 'Alpine Select':
The attractive sheet of glacial ice that covers the north side of the peak - Stonecrop Glacier - is an enticing feature that has drawn many climbers and hikers to the area, easily visible from highway 99.
The precise route chosen will vary depending on snow cover and season, but it is perhaps at its best in mid-summer when spring snow has burned off, although when bare ice later in the year, the climbing is more interesting. Take the wide easy couloir through the lower rock bands, leading to the toe of the ice face. Generally, the most aesthetic line trends up right to finish on the crest below the summit (2-3h).
Descent: down the ridge to the Slalok-Tzsil col, at a stiff 3rd class, then down moraine slopesback down to the Tzsil Creek valley.
The attractive sheet of glacial ice that covers the north side of the peak - Stonecrop Glacier - is an enticing feature that has drawn many climbers and hikers to the area, easily visible from highway 99.
The precise route chosen will vary depending on snow cover and season, but it is perhaps at its best in mid-summer when spring snow has burned off, although when bare ice later in the year, the climbing is more interesting. Take the wide easy couloir through the lower rock bands, leading to the toe of the ice face. Generally, the most aesthetic line trends up right to finish on the crest below the summit (2-3h).
Descent: down the ridge to the Slalok-Tzsil col, at a stiff 3rd class, then down moraine slopesback down to the Tzsil Creek valley.
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