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Routes in 3. Big Wall
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Benedictus/Masterpiece T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dreamin' (project?) T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ghost, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ R |
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Ghostrider T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Hierophant Tower T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Labyrinth Wall Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Magical Mystery Tour (The Girdle/Traverse of Cannon Cliff) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Drop of Water. V T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3 |
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Vital Phenomena T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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VMC Direct Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Ross, John Bragg, Michael Peloquin July 1971 FFA Will Carey and Michael Larson August 8th 2015 |
| Page Views: | 2,701 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Eli B on Aug 10, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Details
Description
P1: Get to the top of Triple S Buttress. Climb a right facing corner system to the top of the pedestal, or go around the pedestal and climb the first pitch of Sam's Swan song to the pedestal. 5.7, 2 bolt belay.
P2: Right arching crack into a bolt ladder. Do some hooking between bolts, following the right-most ladder to a two bolt anchor.
P3: Ancient rivet ladder to a multiple bolt belay below the large overlap.
P4: Bust out left under the overlap, hand sized and larger pieces are helpful here to get through this section, once you're at the corner find a bolt to clip and then head up on some heads and or ball nuts towards a bolted belay on a good foot ledge. This pitch has some blocks on it that are intimidating to climb around.
P5: Free at 5.9+, emphasis on the +, leave the belay and head up through an apparent weakness in a kind of stem box looking feature towards a massive ledge with a nice bolted anchor under the ghost roof. To aid this pitch have some hooks and small cams ready. Pro is not abundant.
P6-8: Do the Ghost Roof (Old school A4 or 5.12R?), or finish on Sam's Swan Song through some scary 5.7R pitches.
If you just wanted to climb The Ghost, it is possible to Rap from the top of P5 with 2 60m ropes. Retreat is easy from this route until you start P6.
P2: Right arching crack into a bolt ladder. Do some hooking between bolts, following the right-most ladder to a two bolt anchor.
P3: Ancient rivet ladder to a multiple bolt belay below the large overlap.
P4: Bust out left under the overlap, hand sized and larger pieces are helpful here to get through this section, once you're at the corner find a bolt to clip and then head up on some heads and or ball nuts towards a bolted belay on a good foot ledge. This pitch has some blocks on it that are intimidating to climb around.
P5: Free at 5.9+, emphasis on the +, leave the belay and head up through an apparent weakness in a kind of stem box looking feature towards a massive ledge with a nice bolted anchor under the ghost roof. To aid this pitch have some hooks and small cams ready. Pro is not abundant.
P6-8: Do the Ghost Roof (Old school A4 or 5.12R?), or finish on Sam's Swan Song through some scary 5.7R pitches.
If you just wanted to climb The Ghost, it is possible to Rap from the top of P5 with 2 60m ropes. Retreat is easy from this route until you start P6.
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