PRINT: Rock Climb Flying Rubber Monkey Canyon, Boulder Canyon

Flying Rubber Monkey Canyon

5.12b/c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Mark Rolofson on December 30, 2001
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sport Park > Visor

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting Details

2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting.

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

This route is a link-up with a separate finish that tops out on the summit. Start on Flying Machines, & climb it to its 3rd bolt. Traverse left past 4th bolt on Rubberneck to the incut jug on Dyno Monkey, & throw its crux dyno, past its 4th (final) bolt, to the hueco. Do not finish up Dyno Monkey. Instead, clip the right anchor bolt on Absolute Boulder Canyon as the last protection bolt. Dyno up for small holds on the sloping top of the crag. Pull up to where you are standing in the hueco. I have often finished the climb here. It possible to pull onto the summit, unrope, & walk off.

Location

This is a link up that starts on Flying Machines & finishes on top above anchor on Absolute Boulder Canyon.

Protection

6 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ScoJo
Boulder, CO

5.12a

I felt this was easier than Rubberneck (I assumed that the giant chipped hold on Dyno Monkey is offed for Rubberneck). Instead of dynoing for the last move, you can throw a heel above the jug and reach up and left to top out there. Aug 6, 2020

Mark Rolofson

5.12c

I'm trying to visualize your finish beta, but I struggle to understand what you are heel hooking above the "jug" (that I assume to be the large, manufactured hueco) on. Then what are you grabbing up and left the top? The crack on Absolute Boulder Canyon? The finish always seemed pretty hard to me with small feet & then a dyno to smaller sloping holds that aren't jugs like the rest of climb. Perhaps finishing to the left would make it easier, but that avoids the coolest moves on the route.

Lastly, I always rated Rubberneck .12b and climbed it before the jugs on Dyno Monkey were created. Regardless, the last dyno on Rubberneck always felt pretty aggro. That said, there is a lot more overhanging climbing on Flying Rubber Monkey Canyon to a 5.12a/b finish, assuming that you do the same finish (straight up off the Dyno Monkey hueco). Aug 7, 2020

ScoJo
Boulder, CO

5.12a

Going straight up as you describe is probably harder, yeah. While hanging on the manufactured hueco, I didn't consider that option as you can't really see the holds. There is a positive edge directly above the hueco that I set my heel on. I reached up and left to a not-so-great sloper; then crossed up with my right hand to a featured loaf above/right of the crack on absolute - topping out on those holds. Aug 7, 2020

Mark Rolofson

5.12c

Thanks for sharing your beta. Yes, you can't see the small holds to dyno for, on my direct finish; however, I think I would have struggled infinitely more to do your beta. I am familiar with the positive chipped edge above the hueco. It's not tiny, but it's not large either. Unless you can throw your foot to the sky like a cheerleader, it seems like setting up to get the right? heel on the edge would require more time and effort than simply throwing the dyno. I've been trying to think of the routes where I had heel hook above my head over the past 48 years of climbing. Wasabe roof on Regarden Wall in Eldorado comes to mind. It's not a good comparison, except that it seems more natural on a ceiling than on the overhanging face at the Visor. It will be interesting what other climbers think about your gymnastic heel hook beta vs. my dyno. Different body types, skills, strengths, and flexibility make a huge difference on what fits and what doesn't. Aug 7, 2020