Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost - 1963
Page Views: 1,899 total · 20/month
Shared By: Nick M on Jul 14, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

An fun, steep, interesting route on the business side of Disappointment Peak. To climbers or skiers traveling below in Glacier Gulch, Disappointment's north face commands attention, even with the immense presence of the Grand and Owen nearby. All in all, it's more reasonable than expected given that it's a 5.9 in the Tetons from the 60's.  The wall is steep but it generally follows moderate features, protection is good, belays are mostly comfy, and the position is great.  Route finding is tricky in a few spots.  While maybe technically easier than nearby Open Book, it's more involved overall.  Decently clean for the area.  I could see it being wet in places if too early in the summer.

The route proper starts in Glacier Gulch and goes to the top. A shorter version involves traversing onto the face via the large ledge from Amphitheater Lake, which was our path. The Ortenburger/Jackson guide warns that the bottom section is "unpleasant". While it didn't look nearly as quality as the upper half, an ascent of the entire face seems worthy, and I hope to go back for the proper go. For now, the route will be described missing the first 3 pitches (my P1 is really P4).

Approach (for the short version): Amphitheater Lake to the first couple hundred feet, 4th/low 5th of the East Ridge route. Walk out right onto the awesome, vegetated ledge that grants you passage onto the gnarnia of the north face.  A seasonal waterfall provides a drink in all but late season.  Finding the start is not obvious, and it seems the average group spends about an hour fiddling around for it.  Continue until where the ledge peters out and all vegetation ends.  Scramble out exposed 3rd/4th class ~30m to the first small lone tree (4' tall) and a short 5.9 jug/crack bulge above. The obvious chimney system starts above that.  It's tricky because you can't see the route at all above you.  The anchor situation isn't great for this belay, but you start plugging good stuff immediately.

P1: A long pitch, primarily fun chimney with an old-school squeeze down low. 50-60m, multiple belay options including an alcove with fixed nuts, 5.9.  Features in the squeeze & a chockstone for pro keep it reasonable.  I thought it was pretty darn hard until I watched someone with more wide experience than I hike it.  A helmet and/or backpack are not your friends here.

P2: Chimney eases, curves right, good belay at a nice flat grassy patch where chimney peters out, 5.6.

P3: Continue mostly straight up the weakness that is the extension of the chimney, climbing steep fingerlocks in black rock past a piton. Before long, you hit a ledge leading right; following the path of least resistance, traverse hard right in ledgy/blocky cracks and face bits towards a prominent left-facing corner that you initially cannot see. Belay at the base of the corner near a lone tree. Airy, 5.8.

**Retreating now would be significant, as your fall-line no longer includes the midway ledge. Glacier Gulch is a long ways down there. The P4 roof may provide shelter from a storm if needed.

P4: Climb the classic, if not a bit vegetated, corner to the roof and storybook belay above. 5.9, some fixed gear.

P5: Multiple options, head upwards on somewhat rambling terrain. Tons of belays including a nice flat grassy patch. Not a particularly long pitch. 5.7 or so.

P6: Multiple options to the top. We did what we believe is the Kimbrough-Rickert variation, the harder of the options. From the belay, look up and left for some appealing, steep, left-leaning cracks in light colored rock. Quest over there and pull a small finishing roof. 5.9+. More straight up looked easier & rambling.  P6&7 may be appropriate to simul as one depending on the party.

A very short scramble gets you to the broad west slope of Disappointment. Hike up to the summit for sweet views, or begin the descent down on ledges to the right of the prominent spoon couloir.  Sharp pointy metal bits may me necessary depending on season.

Location Suggest change

North face of Disappointment Peak. Approach via Glacier Gulch for the full route, or Amphitheater Lake/East Ridge for the midway ledge short version.

Protection Suggest change

A single rack would feel pretty bare bones, but full doubles to #3 would be pretty conservative.  We liked doubles from BD .3 to to #1 with single .2, #2, #3.  May ditch the #3 next time.  Some fixed gear.

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