Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Victim of Circumstance
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British R
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Castle Rock
|
|
Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13 |
|
|
Acro-Aerial Sit V8- 7B PG13 |
|
|
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13 |
|
|
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C |
|
|
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13 |
|
|
Athlete's English Crack (alternate name suggestions accepted) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Athlete's Feat T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Athlete's Feat Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
|
|
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
|
|
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Barbican T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Beetle Bailey S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Born to be Wild T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cadaver Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Cage Free V11 8A |
|
|
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Candelaria's Connection T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Citadel V1 V1 5 |
|
|
Citadel, The V8 7B |
|
|
Close To the Edge S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Curving Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cussin' Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Dropout Option T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fallout Zone T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Flow, The V8 7B |
|
|
Free Range V13 8B |
|
|
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C |
|
|
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hardboiled V10-11 8A |
|
|
Headline / Old Aid Roof C1 |
|
|
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+ |
|
|
Innocent Victim T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
|
|
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Jackson's Wall Direct (submitted as South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Knight With a Shining Stick A3 |
|
|
Left of Acro V0-1 4+ |
|
|
Mexican Picnic T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Midnight Express V14 8B+ |
|
|
Momentary Lapse of Reason T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
|
|
Nintendo V4 6B |
|
|
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
|
|
Nobody's Home T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Nuclear Winter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Pass Fail Option T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Replacement Killers, The V10-11 8A |
|
|
Rope Wars T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B |
|
|
Softboiled V8 7B |
|
|
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+ |
|
|
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+ |
|
|
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C1+ |
|
|
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R |
|
|
Viceroy T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b R |
|
|
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Wild Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Alec Sharp & Matt Lavender, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,643 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Rolofson on Jul 14, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This climb ascends a left-facing corner via a fingertip lieback. Face holds lead up into the base of the corner below a tiny roof. This start is also the start of "Crank It" that then moves right into the next crack.
Place small nuts & execute a very difficult crux fingertip lieback. There is one horizontal face hold & a poor undercling tips lieback slot under the roof with slippery feet on polished black rock. Above the roof, the crux ends at a good fingerlock. The moves ease off to 5.11. At the top of the corner, the crack fades out. Step left onto a rounded knob on the blunt arete, & move into "The Campaigner; above the second bulge. Undercling back right to a good, jug flake.
I used to end the climb here, as it was possible to reach a bolt for the aid line Ground Zero (that is now Crank It). I don't know if it possible to reach the anchor on "Crank It" that is further right. It is possible to continue up a dihedral past 2 bolts (the top of "Nuclear Winter") to finish on the big ledge on "Cussin Crack".
I find it very amazing that no one has posted this route before now, considering the first ascent was in 1982 & I led it in 1986. After that, I top-roped it often after leading "Rebellion". This is a worthy piece of climbing. Protection can be placed every two or three feet, so perhaps it doesn't deserve the R rating. However, hanging on to place the gear is quite strenuous, & caution must be taken to get in good gear at the start. This includes an opposing piece to keep the gear from lifting out. I used double ropes when I led this climb. This adds a great amount of safety, allowing you to alternate ropes on each piece of protection.
D'Antonio's guidebook rates this climb 5.13b & says it was grossly underrated at .12b. Alec Sharp originally rated the climb 5.11+. I may have been the first to call the climb .12b. Years before I climbed it, John Sherman had told me he thought the climb was quite hard & a sandbag at 5.11+. One skinny fingered Brit, named John Aaron, told me it was .12a to toprope.
Place small nuts & execute a very difficult crux fingertip lieback. There is one horizontal face hold & a poor undercling tips lieback slot under the roof with slippery feet on polished black rock. Above the roof, the crux ends at a good fingerlock. The moves ease off to 5.11. At the top of the corner, the crack fades out. Step left onto a rounded knob on the blunt arete, & move into "The Campaigner; above the second bulge. Undercling back right to a good, jug flake.
I used to end the climb here, as it was possible to reach a bolt for the aid line Ground Zero (that is now Crank It). I don't know if it possible to reach the anchor on "Crank It" that is further right. It is possible to continue up a dihedral past 2 bolts (the top of "Nuclear Winter") to finish on the big ledge on "Cussin Crack".
I find it very amazing that no one has posted this route before now, considering the first ascent was in 1982 & I led it in 1986. After that, I top-roped it often after leading "Rebellion". This is a worthy piece of climbing. Protection can be placed every two or three feet, so perhaps it doesn't deserve the R rating. However, hanging on to place the gear is quite strenuous, & caution must be taken to get in good gear at the start. This includes an opposing piece to keep the gear from lifting out. I used double ropes when I led this climb. This adds a great amount of safety, allowing you to alternate ropes on each piece of protection.
D'Antonio's guidebook rates this climb 5.13b & says it was grossly underrated at .12b. Alec Sharp originally rated the climb 5.11+. I may have been the first to call the climb .12b. Years before I climbed it, John Sherman had told me he thought the climb was quite hard & a sandbag at 5.11+. One skinny fingered Brit, named John Aaron, told me it was .12a to toprope.
4 Comments