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No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Eagle Falls
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[Redacted] T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Big Donger, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cracked T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Lunch T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Go to Bread S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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LM T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Queer Eye for the Straight Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Random Rope T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Reverse Kill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Waiting line, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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We Want No Loss Nor Gain of Life T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Kristen Fiore (July 7, 2017) |
| Page Views: | 2,346 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Kristen Fiore on Jul 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kristen Fiore, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
An imposing and unlikely steep route up a gently overhanging red face with two mean cruxes. Originally graded 12c/d because I had never climbed 5.13 and felt bashful about the grade.
Begin 15' right of Red Book at the line of bolts up the red face. Make a few bouldery moves off the ground to gain a jug rest. From the jug rest, clip high and then work through a powerful, beta-specific crux to a shake on good holds. Traverse left to the redpoint crux up a shallow corner before traversing back right on horizontals. Lock into and finish up the moderate finger and handcrack to a ring-bolt anchor.
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