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Routes in 08. Rock of Ages
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Evil Ways S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Go Your Own Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Goodbye Yellow Brick Road S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Heart of Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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It's So Easy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Joker, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Octopus's Garden S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Orange Crush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Purple Haze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shakin' S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slow Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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You're So Vain S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Natasha Hodges and James Bridge, July 2017 |
| Page Views: | 1,213 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Engle on Jul 6, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
This is a proud line more or less up the center of the face.
P1 (5.11-): Start on the left edge of a staging platform and work up featured rock through a couple bulges and a blank section before a good stance. Then continue up slabby rock to the anchor. Clip the anchors and take a step right onto a small but comfortable stance. A belay bolt for the 2nd pitch backs up the anchors.
P2 (5.10+): Move right to broad grassy ledge and start the second pitch in right facing corner. Stem up and pull onto the vertical face using an assortment of protruding knobs. Fun knobby facing climbing leads to the top with a thin move to gain the anchors.
P1 (5.11-): Start on the left edge of a staging platform and work up featured rock through a couple bulges and a blank section before a good stance. Then continue up slabby rock to the anchor. Clip the anchors and take a step right onto a small but comfortable stance. A belay bolt for the 2nd pitch backs up the anchors.
P2 (5.10+): Move right to broad grassy ledge and start the second pitch in right facing corner. Stem up and pull onto the vertical face using an assortment of protruding knobs. Fun knobby facing climbing leads to the top with a thin move to gain the anchors.
Location
Right of "Go Your Own Way". See the
The upper headwall is steeper and longer (40 to 50') than it looks in the beta picture. beta picture.
The upper headwall is steeper and longer (40 to 50') than it looks in the beta picture. beta picture.
Protection
Pitch 1: 12 bolts and a chain anchor.
Pitch 2: 7 bolts and a sport anchor.
60 meter rope and 2 rappels to descend.
Alternatively, you can lead the route in a single pitch and lower to the ground with a 70m rope from the upper anchor. This is *just* long enough with a 70m rope so be careful and knot the end of your rope.
Photos
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