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Crossing the Milky Way
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 11
votes
Routes in Milky Way Wall
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Crossing the Milky Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edge of the Galaxy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Halfway to Uranus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lightning Cracks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sagittarius T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sons of Thunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Supernova T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wormhole T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Brandon Thau, Tom Slater (2011, GU) |
| Page Views: | 1,427 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Riley Daly on Jun 29, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
"One of the best long, easy routes in the area" The entire climb trends left, so if you're looking up to find bolts or the route, look left.
P1 - 5.7 - 45m: 2 bolts, gear, gear belay. Start at the extreme right edge of a ledge. Climb a left-slanting seam (feet) to a bolt at the top of the seam. Then climb over bulges to a small pocket at the base of the first large water runnel (.75") then left to a bolt and belay at the bottom of the obvious dihedral.
P2 - 5.8 -45m: 2 bolts, gear, 2-bolt anchor. Climb the dihedral (crux), placing small gear and exit it on bomber knob handholds. Climb up a thin runnel past two bolts to the anchor.
P3 - 5.7 - 60m: 1 bolt, gear, knob slings, 2-bolt anchor. Climb the left-slanting crack to a face that grows more and more featured with knobs to anchor on ledge. 1 good knob to sling at beginning of crack, which widens to take bigger gear as you continue upwards. At the top of the pitch, move left sooner rather than later to avoid an exposed traverse to the anchor.
P4 - 5.6 - 60m: knob slings, gear, gear anchor. Up and left to skyline through knobs to a gear anchor in flake below summit blocks. Glorious climbing, very secure.
Walk off left marked by cairns
P1 - 5.7 - 45m: 2 bolts, gear, gear belay. Start at the extreme right edge of a ledge. Climb a left-slanting seam (feet) to a bolt at the top of the seam. Then climb over bulges to a small pocket at the base of the first large water runnel (.75") then left to a bolt and belay at the bottom of the obvious dihedral.
P2 - 5.8 -45m: 2 bolts, gear, 2-bolt anchor. Climb the dihedral (crux), placing small gear and exit it on bomber knob handholds. Climb up a thin runnel past two bolts to the anchor.
P3 - 5.7 - 60m: 1 bolt, gear, knob slings, 2-bolt anchor. Climb the left-slanting crack to a face that grows more and more featured with knobs to anchor on ledge. 1 good knob to sling at beginning of crack, which widens to take bigger gear as you continue upwards. At the top of the pitch, move left sooner rather than later to avoid an exposed traverse to the anchor.
P4 - 5.6 - 60m: knob slings, gear, gear anchor. Up and left to skyline through knobs to a gear anchor in flake below summit blocks. Glorious climbing, very secure.
Walk off left marked by cairns
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