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Routes in Upper Broadway
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Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bogtrotter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castor to Terror T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Changeling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Face to Gunsight Notch T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hamburger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heavy Fuel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hopeful Illusions Direct Finish T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Icing on the Cake T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Kid Galahad and the Sunshine Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lunge or Plunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Mr. Jones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Natural Mystic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Off Broadway Show T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orion's belt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Orion’s Belt Direct Finish T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Terminal Velocity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Vision, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Howard Doyle, Paul Anikis, Eric Janoscrat |
| Page Views: | 1,620 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Jun 22, 2017 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
This route was (accidentally?) retro-bolted a number of years back and personally I think it's a great addition as the previous route warranted at least an R if not X rating.
Start on the face just left of Dirty Old Man. Climb the face past 4 bolts and a couple of gear placements to the top and a new two-bolt anchor. Fairly sustained climbing on sharp in-cut holds. Rock quality is little suspect towards the top.
Photos
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