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Little White Lies
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 6 votes
Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m), Grade V |
FA: | Mark Strege |
Page Views: | 779 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Mark Orsag on Jun 19, 2017 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Start in black schist. Scramble up to a two-handed MONSTER jug that begins the route in a bit of an athletic fashion. Then move thoughtfully through moves up to bolt 3. You will now be on a VERY blank-looking granite slab. There are some decent footholds, but the handholds are very sketchy (and that is putting it generously). Top has tricky beta. The crux seemed to be a very cryptic sequence around bolt 4, but the top is hard period. Make, single-mindedly, for a tiny diagnoling flake (not great but way better than what has been there in the crux section), and use that to finish out the route -pretty desperate through the last two bolts on the whole. Does ease a bit as you get higher on the flake, which angles away a bit to the left as you finish right. If you stay on the bolt line and don't traverse into the Guilty Conscience routes, I would say that this route is in the 10+ range. It is only rated 9+ in Burr and Busse. I am going with the 10+ rating here, for now. I don't propose a re-grade lightly and will be guided by what others think. I will alter the posted rating accordingly.
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