Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 5. Fourth Buttress
SNAFU
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in 5. Fourth Buttress
|
|
Ich Bin Ein Auslander S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Pet Czech Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Sandbox S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Skintimate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
SNAFU S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Craig Lewis |
| Page Views: | 857 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | AndyJohnson on Jun 8, 2017 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Great movement on face crimps, then glue-reinforced jugs out the roof. The climbing is wild and 4-stars. In spring 2017, it seems the route does not see much traffic and may need a brushing. 5.12a in the guidebook, I would say 12b is fair.
Stick-clip the first bolt (consider hanging the 2nd draw with a stick clip as well). Climb the dirty corner with some stemming to a series of crimps and sloping ledges that traverse left past the first bolt. Climb straight up on crimps and ledges (with a sweet under-cling move) to below the first roof.
From here, a well-planned series of reinforced jugs take you to a decent knee-bar rest on a flake below the second roof. Suss out a difficult sequence from the roof through an under-cling bulge to the last bolt. Follow jugs and avoid flakey rock to a stance at the anchors.
The rock on the face and the reinforced holds are solid. Some weak flakes exist and could be kicked off in the roofs. Consider a helmet and a strategic location (not under the climber) for the belayer.
Stick-clip the first bolt (consider hanging the 2nd draw with a stick clip as well). Climb the dirty corner with some stemming to a series of crimps and sloping ledges that traverse left past the first bolt. Climb straight up on crimps and ledges (with a sweet under-cling move) to below the first roof.
From here, a well-planned series of reinforced jugs take you to a decent knee-bar rest on a flake below the second roof. Suss out a difficult sequence from the roof through an under-cling bulge to the last bolt. Follow jugs and avoid flakey rock to a stance at the anchors.
The rock on the face and the reinforced holds are solid. Some weak flakes exist and could be kicked off in the roofs. Consider a helmet and a strategic location (not under the climber) for the belayer.
Photos
- No Photos -
1 Comment