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Crustacean
5.8,
TR, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 1.7 from 15
votes
FA: unknown
Maine
> -Acadia NP
> Great Head
> Left Wall
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
Description
Start just where the rock starts to drop out and the big roof is about to begin. Usually starts off with some kinda mantel, followed by climbing a vertical/slab face with a corner/bulge near the top. I thin the difficulty can vary slightly depending on how far right or left you climb.
Location
Second-left-most climb on the 'Left Wall' area of Great Head.
From below, Start just where the rock starts to drop out and the big roof is about to begin.
From above, there's a large ledge/area dropped slightly below the top of the cliff, with a few spread-out bolts. a few TRs can be set from here. We set up a TR for this by using the two left-most bolts (looking from the ocean facing the cliff) and about ~10' of webbing/static from each so you'r rope doesn't rub. I think you want the anchor point just to the right (again, looking from cliff) of a small arete/corner thing neat the top, but it's easier to have a spotter below or just rap down and check.
Protection
Bolts or gear placements from above (TR). Don't thing it's offers much gear for trad leading.
[Hide Photo] Climber about to rappel down over Crustacean to check if we set up the anchor in the right place.
[Hide Photo] Joe on Crustacean.