5.12a,
Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Thomas Emde
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (m) Smith Rock…
> (1) Northeast Face
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK. THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is a variation to European Vacation that climbs better rock in the middle of the tower. Start with the Euro start or test your mettle with the Eye of the Beholder start, which can be linked into the second pitch.
P3: The topo in the guidebook is incorrect, this is a mixed pitch. Head towards a bolt about 30 feet above the belay, it may be possible to place gear in the crack to the left, or a block can be slung. After clipping the bolt head up to a second bolt just above the roof, placing gear to reach it. From here to the top of the tower no trad gear is needed. 5.10b
P4: Follow the bolts, backcleaning the second and extending what you can. The crux is brief and hits at the two closely spaced bolts with an overhang above. Continue up a slab covered in lichen to the 5th pitch belay anchor for Euro Vacation.
Location
Starts on Eye of the Beholder or Struggle Within.
Protection
12 quickdraws or so if you're linking pitches 1&2 or 5&6, single rack from .4-1 for the one mixed pitch.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
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