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Black Elvis
5.10 A1,
Trad, Aid, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Glenn Dunmire Solo April '91
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Sand Flats
> Elvis's Hammer
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb is located on the South side of Elvis's Hammer (Side facing Rhino's Horn) opposite side of the Hormones in Waiting Free route! Two routes ascend this same crack system from opposite ends of the spire. Be careful scrambling around to the start of the route, rather slabby on sandstone and significant drops off each side. Expect no one else this place is out there and a rad adventure.
Location
No trails, so walk up the many washes being careful to avoid the very plentiful crypto soil. I parked just after the bulldozed slick rock before Yellow/black crossing signs. I walked towards the "saddle" SW in the ridge to the right which spit me out within close walking distance of the tower. Located on other side of tower than the popular and only free route on this tower 'Hormones in Waiting'
Protection
Bolted anchor on top of South side.
Bring small finger gear to hands with a single #4 Size (in) .5" to 4"
Rapped off Anchors for Hormones in Waiting as they looked to be better condition.
[Hide Photo] Rapping off the Hammer Yeeehaa
[Hide Photo] Elvis's Hammer, Black Elvis goes up the crack system on the left side