Louisiana Lou and the Tickler of Poon
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Aden, Umbel. 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,429 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Kevin Umbel on Apr 24, 2017 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Begin 20' right of 'The Good Ol' Days' by scrambling up to a low angle hand crack. Climb this and skank right, aiming for a little bulge feature that protects with a gray master cam. Mantle up on to this and get a stance. Proceed mostly straight up to the base of an overhang and get good pro. Follow path of least resistance up to a short finger crack in a roof. Pull this to a decent hold and climb onto a giant flake feature in the hanging dihedral (hard to see from ground) that you'll follow to its end, gaining another stance just left of the flake's end to a surreal position. Get more gear and climb up and right for another 15-20' to a two pin anchor with webbing and rap rings.
This route has an adventurous feel to it and requires creative gear placements in a couple places. With that being said, it's quite good and offers a spectacular view of endless wall with amazing positions for the leader.
This route has an adventurous feel to it and requires creative gear placements in a couple places. With that being said, it's quite good and offers a spectacular view of endless wall with amazing positions for the leader.
Protection
Single rack to 2" cams. Stoppers and a good selection of 2' slings. A 3" cam can also be placed by the silver master cam for the mantle/bulge move, though the master cam is the better of the two placements. A purple master cam protects the finger crack move in the roof, but I'm sure you can probably use something similar in size.
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