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El Arte de Volar

5.12c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 37 votes
FA: Ulric
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Salto > La Boca
Warning Access Issue: Do not use the dirt road to access the canyon. DetailsDrop down

Description

Incredible climb. Aptly named, beware the flying might not happen where you expect.

Location

Starts right of some small trees and stumps.

Protection

12 bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] This is probably my favorite route from my 2-week trip to El Salto. The rock quality isn't as good as some of the other classics - there are several sharp, thin crimps that when they break will make the route harder - but the movement, exposure, and grand finale of this route make up for it. Throw your leg in the big hole to get a good rest before the final, cryptic moves to the chains. Hanging a long draw and/or clipping from the crimp doesn't count ;-) do the big move out left for full value! Jan 5, 2019
Jim Lawyer

  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Cool leg-in-a-hole rest before the final bit. I thought the route was excellent, but stiff for 12c, at least compared to the other ES 12c's. Very few rests.

During my two-week visit, I witnessed two people decking from the easy ground getting to the first bolt. The terrain seems harmless enough, but the friendly-looking knobby patina breaks off easily. Stick clip! Feb 1, 2019
Jason O
TX
 
[Hide Comment] SEW
GUD

I second Mr. Stevens's recommendation for doing the "big move out left" to the clipping jug, but wouldn't go so far as to say that clipping from the crimps doesn't count, as the FA was done in this manner (it's harder but less committing). Jan 14, 2020
Connie Shang
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] If the name doesn't give it away, the literal last move is the hardest and the most exposed. Techy face climbing at its best. Jan 28, 2020