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Diamond in the Tuff
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.5 from 29 votes
Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Erik Wolfe/Tom Grundy/Weston Lippia |
Page Views: | 1,208 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2017 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Pitch 1 (65' - 5.10b/c): Tricky rounded holds on a steep wall lead to a rest at "The Duck Bill", then past diminishing holds to the arete. The steepness eases to a mantle below the anchors.
Pitch 2 (75'- 5.11a): Easy terrain for 45 feet brings one to a steep headwall. Step onto the face, clip the crux bolt and do some fancy dancing to surmount the bulge (height dependent). Traverse right and finish up on a fun and exposed arete.
There is an amazing ledge on the arete at the top (just below the second pitch anchors), so I put a bolt in to use the anchors as a re-direct for belaying the second up. Bring a long sling or daisy if you want to chill on the ledge.
Edit: I should also mention that I get cell-phone reception from the ledge on the second pitch. Pretty rare for the gorge.
Pitch 2 (75'- 5.11a): Easy terrain for 45 feet brings one to a steep headwall. Step onto the face, clip the crux bolt and do some fancy dancing to surmount the bulge (height dependent). Traverse right and finish up on a fun and exposed arete.
There is an amazing ledge on the arete at the top (just below the second pitch anchors), so I put a bolt in to use the anchors as a re-direct for belaying the second up. Bring a long sling or daisy if you want to chill on the ledge.
Edit: I should also mention that I get cell-phone reception from the ledge on the second pitch. Pretty rare for the gorge.
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