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SouthEast gully+face
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in b. Red Book Point
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West side T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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NorthWest Ridges T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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North Gully + NW ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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SouthEast gully+face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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South gully+ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Walrus Gully T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Red Book Ridges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 821 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Feb 21, 2017 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Lots of interesting scrambling.
The route up to Red Book Point from the east side of the Calicos with the least amount of difficult climbing and navigation. Worth getting to know first to later use as a descent from another route from the east side.
. . (the print guidebook by Courtney Purcell mentions a "Southeast Ridge" route. We're not sure where that goes, but perhaps it's a variation on this route).
route: Exit left from the SE gully - somewhere around (N36.1555 W115.4319) - and scramble up steeper roughly WSW toward the summit ridge. Soon with a zag to the right, then a steeper zig up left (sustained class 4 or 5). After about 200 feet - somewhere around (N36.1552 W115.4325) - aim more right (NNW) toward the summit - [ see Photo ] - with some navigation over and around various gaps and shelves, and one or two low class 5 climbing sections to get there.
descent: Return the same way.
warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.
The route up to Red Book Point from the east side of the Calicos with the least amount of difficult climbing and navigation. Worth getting to know first to later use as a descent from another route from the east side.
. . (the print guidebook by Courtney Purcell mentions a "Southeast Ridge" route. We're not sure where that goes, but perhaps it's a variation on this route).
route: Exit left from the SE gully - somewhere around (N36.1555 W115.4319) - and scramble up steeper roughly WSW toward the summit ridge. Soon with a zag to the right, then a steeper zig up left (sustained class 4 or 5). After about 200 feet - somewhere around (N36.1552 W115.4325) - aim more right (NNW) toward the summit - [ see Photo ] - with some navigation over and around various gaps and shelves, and one or two low class 5 climbing sections to get there.
descent: Return the same way.
warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.
Location
. . (Might help to find "rbp" on the map).
From Calico Basin the idea is to start up the wide gully toward the Middle Pass, then exit left up to the summit ridge ...
From Assisi Rd parking (N36.1495 W115.4199) : Hike NW 0.4 mile (toward the big lower SE ridge of Red Book Point) on rough gravel road to some picnic tables, then NNW 0.3 mile going right along the base of the ridge to the base of a wide gully (N36.1540 W115.4260)
. . (this point could also be reached by going 0.4 mile WSW from Sandstone Rd parking).
The central gully starts narrow and steep, so likely better at first to scramble up right (NNW) onto slabs above its right side and scramble up on those (roughly West) for about 350 feet, then traverse left into the central gully and scramble up that, at first West then curves WNW for a total of about 0.4 mile -- keep looking up left to try to see the highest point on the ridge above. Somewhere around (N36.1555 W115.4319), exit the gully left into the steeper climbing.
From Calico Basin the idea is to start up the wide gully toward the Middle Pass, then exit left up to the summit ridge ...
From Assisi Rd parking (N36.1495 W115.4199) : Hike NW 0.4 mile (toward the big lower SE ridge of Red Book Point) on rough gravel road to some picnic tables, then NNW 0.3 mile going right along the base of the ridge to the base of a wide gully (N36.1540 W115.4260)
. . (this point could also be reached by going 0.4 mile WSW from Sandstone Rd parking).
The central gully starts narrow and steep, so likely better at first to scramble up right (NNW) onto slabs above its right side and scramble up on those (roughly West) for about 350 feet, then traverse left into the central gully and scramble up that, at first West then curves WNW for a total of about 0.4 mile -- keep looking up left to try to see the highest point on the ridge above. Somewhere around (N36.1555 W115.4319), exit the gully left into the steeper climbing.
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