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Don't Fear The Boogie Man
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Cynical Pinnacle
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50 Shades of Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Center Route P1 Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Class Act T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Green Piece T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost at Sea T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Only the Lonely S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rubber Ducky P2 T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tough Turf T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Jason Haas, Craig Weinhold (02/10), or perhaps Jim Dunn |
| Page Views: | 2,204 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | rkrum on Feb 19, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
"The name comes from a conversation with longtime local Noel Childs who said climbers had been looking at but then quickly looking away from this obvious line for nearly three decades. The rock quality is impeccable... this is a mega classic."
P1. Step into the prickly start of the sustained squeeze chimney. Sidewind, swim, and frogger your way up to a single bolt anchor on your left (back it up with small cam or two) underneath the roof (5.9+, 60').
P2. Traverse out right, place your optional #5, and delicately worm your way into the alcove under the crux. Sort out gear, and patiently thrash your way out the roof. Succeeding is highly recommended here for various reasons. Belay in the alcove below the next roof. Don't forget to stop and smell the roses. Note: "the 'thin flake' overhead never comes into play"; however, your follower will probably appreciate a bit of belay creativity on your part (5.11, 40').
P3. Hand traverse out left, step up to a large ledge. If there was still any question as to whether you were on route, you'll know when you get here (5.8, 25').
P4. Jam and offwidth your way off the ledge to the creme brulee of the route, a very enjoyable 5.10 offwidth bulge to chimney. Cruise your way to the top of the gaping fissure, and belay on gear (5.10, 105').
P1. Step into the prickly start of the sustained squeeze chimney. Sidewind, swim, and frogger your way up to a single bolt anchor on your left (back it up with small cam or two) underneath the roof (5.9+, 60').
P2. Traverse out right, place your optional #5, and delicately worm your way into the alcove under the crux. Sort out gear, and patiently thrash your way out the roof. Succeeding is highly recommended here for various reasons. Belay in the alcove below the next roof. Don't forget to stop and smell the roses. Note: "the 'thin flake' overhead never comes into play"; however, your follower will probably appreciate a bit of belay creativity on your part (5.11, 40').
P3. Hand traverse out left, step up to a large ledge. If there was still any question as to whether you were on route, you'll know when you get here (5.8, 25').
P4. Jam and offwidth your way off the ledge to the creme brulee of the route, a very enjoyable 5.10 offwidth bulge to chimney. Cruise your way to the top of the gaping fissure, and belay on gear (5.10, 105').
Location
Take the approach trail to the base of the formation. Go right about 80 feet. Look up.
Descent: from the slung block on the summit, a 70m single rope rap down the north side will get you to a slab at the base of the uphill side of the formation (knot your ends) but will not get you straight down into the actual gully floor. This seems preferable to rapping into the gully and you do not need a second rope.
Descent: from the slung block on the summit, a 70m single rope rap down the north side will get you to a slab at the base of the uphill side of the formation (knot your ends) but will not get you straight down into the actual gully floor. This seems preferable to rapping into the gully and you do not need a second rope.
Protection
The following is what I would consider a pretty reasonable rack. You may want more, you may want less. In other words, supplement with additional Big Bros or leave some on the ground depending on your tolerance for runout 5.8-5.9 chimney.
P1: 2 blue Big Bro, #9, gold Big Bro. A finger - thin hand piece for the belay.
P2: "optional #5", #9 and green Big Bro OR 2 green Big Bros. Hand - fist sized gear for the belay.
P3: rack to #4.
P4: rack to #6. Small-ish cams could be placed in horizontals on occasion if you were so inclined.
P1: 2 blue Big Bro, #9, gold Big Bro. A finger - thin hand piece for the belay.
P2: "optional #5", #9 and green Big Bro OR 2 green Big Bros. Hand - fist sized gear for the belay.
P3: rack to #4.
P4: rack to #6. Small-ish cams could be placed in horizontals on occasion if you were so inclined.
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