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Routes in Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)
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Black Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cell Block 10 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Corner Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Desperate Reality T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Corador T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fight Club T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fistfighter T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hand Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kid Gloves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rope-a-Dope TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Temple of the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Warm Up, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 887 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Feb 16, 2017 |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Short but sweet. About 50' past the start of Desperate Reality, where the corridor begins to widen, climb a right-angling finger crack on the left wall to a sloping ledge capped by a low roof. Shuffle or crawl about ten feet right on the ledge to a stunning splitter that narrows from hands to thin hands to fingers (crux). Scramble up and left to a large belay tree. Descend by looping your rope over the tree and rappelling.
Note:
This route has almost certainly seen prior ascents. I've merely attached a name to the route for the sake of clarification. The first time I climbed it, I discovered that I could stem upward, with hands and feet on opposite walls, in order to place good pro in the initial finger crack. The wide stem reminded me of the famous 100' talll stem box on El Matador at Devil's Tower (although certainly it's much less pumpy on the calves!). The pun contained in the route name occurred to me almost immediately and I liked it so the name stuck. Chris
Note:
This route has almost certainly seen prior ascents. I've merely attached a name to the route for the sake of clarification. The first time I climbed it, I discovered that I could stem upward, with hands and feet on opposite walls, in order to place good pro in the initial finger crack. The wide stem reminded me of the famous 100' talll stem box on El Matador at Devil's Tower (although certainly it's much less pumpy on the calves!). The pun contained in the route name occurred to me almost immediately and I liked it so the name stuck. Chris
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