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Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A0
Avg: 2.6 from 11
votes
Routes in Main Face
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Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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Desperado Chuteout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Icarus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Los Banditos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 |
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Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R |
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Machete Direct - Free T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Robots of Dawn S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock Around the Clock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 |
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Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 |
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West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R |
| Type: | Sport, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,622 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Tony Lobay on Jan 31, 2017 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Beta
This is the link up of Lucky 13 to True Grit to George and Phyllis' Headwall to Rock Around the Clock. This link up provides 6 or 7 pitches of 5.8-5.10a/b climbing with a short bolt ladder in the middle. The bolt ladder is a bit reachy - recommend using aiders rather than just pulling on draws. The route is quite similar in character to Machete Direct.
P1 (Lucky 13): 5.10a bolt ladder. 13 densely spaced bolts. Quality rock.
P2: Climb True Grit. Two bolts. 5.4 OK rock. Belay at the pine tree.
P3: GP Headwall. 5.10 a/b start leads to easier 5.7. Cut right and continue up to Rock Around the Clock. Alternatively climb to the top of the GP Headwall and move belay over to Rock Around the Clock.
P4: Climb the 5.9/A0 bolt ladder. Bolts to a 5.9 move to more bolts lead to an intermediate anchor.
P5: 5.8 to 3rd class section. (Can be split into two pitches).
P6: 5.5 to top of ridge. Small cams pro the 5.5 section.
There are numerous variations: Bill's Bad Bolts and Los Banditos are alternative finishes (vs. Rock Around the Clock). Alias Bandits Bench is an alternate start. Lucky 13 is obnoxiously over-bolted (the bolt ladder extends over 5.7 terrain + sawn tree limbs).
Listing this as a complete route rather than the eclectic mix of pitches that were done at different times. The provides a comprehensive bottom-to-top route for someone browsing Pinnacles West. There are multiple variations as mentioned in the comments.
All bolts are in excellent condition. All anchors are bolts and have chains. Requires two ropes to rap. Alternative descent from top of the ridge is possible. You cannot rap pitch 3 with a single 70m rope (tried, didn't work).
8 Comments