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Lilith
WI4,
Ice, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.2 from 20
votes
FA: Feb 17, 1985, Alan Jolly, Rachael Lawrence
New York
> Adirondacks
> Adirondack Ice…
> D: Keene Valley…
> Chapel Pond
Description
P1: Start up a slab of ice next to a left facing corner, beneath the upper pillar of Lilith. Head left over a few large steps to an overhanging orange face with a right rising ramp beneath it. Follow the ramp to an island of trees and set up a belay. This is directly below the pillar so set up accordingly. There is a nice nook to shelter the belayer from falling ice.
Variation: see first comment.
P2: Climb up a left facing corner to the pillar. Climb the pillar on the right side to a nice rest before firing the final section.
Variation: see first comment.
Rappel of trees to ground with double or with single to P1 belay.
Location
About 100' right of Big Brother area.
Protection
Ice Screws
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On the first pitch, you can approach the belay ledge directly from below, making this pitch much more difficult. If it's not iced up, then you can dry tool a hidden crack in a right-facing wall (gear to 3"). Both options are great, and make a much nicer first pitch.
On the second pitch, there is a direct approach to the column from the belay ledge. On the overhanging wall, directly above the belay trees, climb hangers (great #0.75/#1 Camalot placement) up the overhanging wall to a ledge directly below the upper column. Jan 10, 2017
Ballston Lake, NY