PRINT: Rock Climb Through the Never, The New River Gorge Region

Through the Never

5.12b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: Dan Osman, Jay Smith 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Although only given two stars in Williams' guidebook, I thought this was a great pitch on great rock, with some of the ubiquitous amazing NRG holds and interesting moves throughout.

Stick-clip the first bolt and embark on hard moves immediately. A very hard crux utilizing a very unique hold takes you past the second bolt and into "mellower" climbing. One more, much easier crux on awesome rock takes you past the last bolt to the anchor.

Location

Immediately right of Pre-Marital Bliss

Protection

6 well-spaced bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

E taking a TR lap on an amazing Winter day

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BrianWS

This is a hard-as-nails 12b, not unlike many other Endless Wall 12b's. Tough and sustained with some very uncomfortable fall potential. Jan 6, 2017

Brendan1 Leich
Bruceton Mills, WV

The only Dan Osman line at the New. Endless Wall is famous for hard 5.12s and this is the stiffest one I’ve done yet! (A lot of people say Sacrilege 12b is hard, but I thought this one was a lot harder).

The crux is unique, involving a dyno to one-arm-catch a crimp, which felt V6/7 when I did it in mid-August. The bulge in front of you makes the move surprisingly fair for all heights, and may even be slightly easier if you’re short, a rarity at the New. Aug 17, 2024