PRINT: Rock Climb Approach Gully, Smith Rock

Approach Gully

3rd, Trad,

Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: -
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (zz) Upper Gorge

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

I'm noting the approach gully here as an organizational aide; it breaks the Upper Gorge into two sections.

The Urge and Shark Infested Waters, etc, are all downstream to the west. The Seep, E-Type, Mojomatic, etc. are all upstream to the east.

Depending on water levels and how overgrown the base is, dropping in here may be the best and/or only approach.

Location

A climber trail leads from the canal road to the top of the gully but if you've never located it before, you can also find it by hiking the rim of the Gorge eastward from the bend in the river. It's the first and only break in this section of the gorge.

Protection

easy scramble, but slipping could be bad

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Janes

Some loose rock but overall a good route! It can feel a bit high in the grade if you don’t nail the sequence, still, probably a good first approach for aspiring Upper Gorge climbers. Jan 24, 2022

michalm

Highly recommended over the heinous boulder hop + bushwhack sans headlamp alternative. Would go this way again. Jan 31, 2023