All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (8) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin n' Danglin'

Name: Anglin n' Danglin'
Rating: 3.5

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in (8) Anglin's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	7-10 Split S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	America's Most Blunted S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chosstafarian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Full-Opti S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jim Climbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lava Lanes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA:	prep: Dave McRae. FFA: Dave McRae & Alan Collins 11-29-2016
Page Views:	4,413 total · 45/month
Shared By:	Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Anglin n' Danglin' is a fully bolted sport climb with sustained 5.11- climbing and mind blowing position.

Start at the bolted anchor on the left side of the main ledge. Linking pitches is possible but not recommended due to rope drag and large ledges.

P1. 5.11a** 30 feet of chossy 5.6 leads to a brief crux and better rock in a left facing corner. 8 bolts. 90 feet.

P2. 5.11b**** Sustained stemming in a right facing corner. Avoid the obvious descent anchor above the ninth bolt, and step left to a hidden anchor at a good stance. 9 bolts. 80 feet.

P3. 5.10c*** Straight forward face climbing leads to a comfortable ledge. 5 bolts. 40 feet.

P4. 5.11a****The money pitch! Crank on the ever steepening flake to a crux at the fourth bolt. The difficulty eases only slightly as you angle n' dangle your way across an exposed traverse to the anchors. 9 bolts. 80 feet.

P5. 5.7* A utilitarian march to the summit. Tread lightly as you follow a path of cleaning scars to the top. 70 feet.

Descent: four rappels with a single, 70 meter rope. From the anchor atop P4, rap to the descent anchor atop P2. Or, scramble off the back.

Location

Hike up the gully between the Monument and Anglin's Buttress for five minutes. At the end of the rock stairs look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt, leading to the main ledge.