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Routes in North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Brad Shaver, Bob Mitchell, Art Williams 1972. FFA Jim Okel, Tom Howard, Shannon Stegg 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,702 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | wes calkins on Nov 29, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The yearly seasonal raptor closure has been lifted as of late June 2020.
Description
P1. Begin at a obvious corner crack system left of bumblebee buttress. Climb, jam, and stem your way up the corner past 3 fixed pins(5.10). Once above the 3rd pin you can get an additional piece of gear and then begin a rightward traverse. Take heart in this moment as you begin the traverse, a small tcu will be found at head height after 10-15 feet of horizontal movement from the corner feature(5.8). Continue along a horizontal crack and belay or link with P2.
P2. From the horizontal crack continue right to another left facing corner, passing a nest of rap slings on a chockstone and climb up the corner to a belay at a single bolt that can be backed up with other dubious gear. (The bolt is new and in good condition) 5.7
P3. From the bolt belay go left and up passing many horizontals that accept small to medium cams. The route from here could take many variations so seek out the gear and path of least resistance. Once you get out of the steep climbing and the angle of the wall eases find a stance and belay off a gear anchor. 5.10
P4. Continue up the steep ,but less than vertical, lichen covered wall to an obvious large ledge with a large pine tree. 5.9
P5. Many options from here exist to make it past the last rock band. Choose your own adventure
I have tried to climb this route several time and have found the upper pitches to be wet. The first pitch is a worthy climb and it is easily rappelled with a single rope at a nest of slings after the first pitch traverse.
P2. From the horizontal crack continue right to another left facing corner, passing a nest of rap slings on a chockstone and climb up the corner to a belay at a single bolt that can be backed up with other dubious gear. (The bolt is new and in good condition) 5.7
P3. From the bolt belay go left and up passing many horizontals that accept small to medium cams. The route from here could take many variations so seek out the gear and path of least resistance. Once you get out of the steep climbing and the angle of the wall eases find a stance and belay off a gear anchor. 5.10
P4. Continue up the steep ,but less than vertical, lichen covered wall to an obvious large ledge with a large pine tree. 5.9
P5. Many options from here exist to make it past the last rock band. Choose your own adventure
I have tried to climb this route several time and have found the upper pitches to be wet. The first pitch is a worthy climb and it is easily rappelled with a single rope at a nest of slings after the first pitch traverse.
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