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Squirrel Eye

5.11a PG13, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: Marcus Floyd and Mathew Green
Missouri > CM: Providence > S Area

Description

Squirel Eye name about during Matt's ascent when a surprised, fuzzy tail, stopped and gazed at him for a second with large and exicted eyes, before continuing with its awsome speed climbing skills across the sheer cliff face.
While this line continues all the way to the top of the cliff, the second pitch is not for the faint hearted.
The first pitch is a well protected line of bolts leading past the right side of the large right hole. Continue through the balance moves to reach up and over the small roof. Use smaller holds to climb over the bulge to the 2 bolt anchors.
The second pitch requires a couple quick draws, cams and nuts for protection. The obvious crux is protected by a bolt. Two bolt anchor can be access from above to set up a top rope.

Location

First line of bolts, about 20 feet left of 'Juvenile.' The first pitch is a well protected line of bolts leading past the right side of the large right hole.

Protection

Quick draws and a standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Great first pitch
[Hide Photo] Great first pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Lower pitch feels closer to 5.11-. Interesting climbing with two distinct cruxes. The lower crux seems too thin for the .10d grade. Upper crux is a balancey roof pull on good holds. Easier on the fingers, but way more technical. Good route. Oct 5, 2017
[Hide Comment] Don't do the second pitch on this. First of all, it's not worth the climb. The quality of movement and the view from the top are both bland. Second, the second pitch is about another 25 feet with one singular bolt. Other people commenting have pointed out the potential harm. Well, they're not alone. The MO Beta guidebook says the second pitch is not recommended and gave it an R rating.

Just stick with the first pitch. It shares an anchor with Owl Eyes. Easy clipping with a fun, brief crux on two small crimps above the large hole. Nov 13, 2019
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] This is a route that requires trad to protect the second pitch. It's listed as trad so size up the second pitch before you move up to clip the only bolt present! Read the description and don't be nuts! "Squirrel Eye" Dec 17, 2019