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Routes in 8-Dostie
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Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Central Fins - Left Corners S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Central Fins Wandering TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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CF Connect Left Upper Right S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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CF Left Ledge S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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CF Right Groove S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Connect High Chouinard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Connect Top Central Fins T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Limbaugh Limbo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right End Ledge S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Upper Right Corner S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Upper Right Exit S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upper Right Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 721 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Nov 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Sustained fun moves. If only the good climbing were longer.
Problem as of 2018 is finding a top anchor which can be reached without crossing lots of steep loose dirt and loose rock.
. . Still lots of loose rock above the notch.
Diagonal left up the crack, then step up right through notch. Scramble up (loose + dirty) to a convenient place to build a Trad anchor;
Variations High Finish - (1) Could connect with top anchors for first pitches of route in the Central Fins by continuing up with the route "Connect Top Central Fins"; or (2) could go higher and farther to top of sector Chouinard, then rappel down.
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Problem as of 2018 is finding a top anchor which can be reached without crossing lots of steep loose dirt and loose rock.
. . Still lots of loose rock above the notch.
Diagonal left up the crack, then step up right through notch. Scramble up (loose + dirty) to a convenient place to build a Trad anchor;
Variations High Finish - (1) Could connect with top anchors for first pitches of route in the Central Fins by continuing up with the route "Connect Top Central Fins"; or (2) could go higher and farther to top of sector Chouinard, then rappel down.
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
At the right edge of the central apron of the (gentler) left side of sector Cosmiques - (with some broken loose left-facing ramps to its left and a more-than-vertical 25-ft-high face to its right).
At the right end of a diagonal crack going up right to left to a notch.
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
At the right end of a diagonal crack going up right to left to a notch.
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
Leading: standard Trad rack. Long slings might be helpful for building anchor around protruding rocks.
No fixed hardware for top anchor or intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Plan to bring your own equipment to leave behind to descend by rappel (unless you expect to down-climb the route).
No fixed hardware for top anchor or intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Plan to bring your own equipment to leave behind to descend by rappel (unless you expect to down-climb the route).
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