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> Dodger
Enter the Vortex
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Dodger
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Enter the Vortex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Palmistry T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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South Face, The Dodger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | P. Kingsbury, S. Davis and assistance on P1 with J. Snyder |
| Page Views: | 1,722 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Kingsbury on Nov 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
P1: Bouldery moves above two .75's in a sandbox lead to a single high bolt and more face moves to a bomber handjam and good gear (5.10+R). Above the hand jam the system leads to a bulge in a corner going from tight hands to offwidth and finally the belay (2 bolts). (5.11 R) 90'
P2: Run out chimney (5.8) and offwidth with a single 6 and green tube lead to a bolt (double length runner) at about 60 feet above the belay. This bolt marks where you must traverse out and around the corner to a blind bolt (shoulder length runner), and and into the tips to finger splitter above (11+/.12- or so). 2 bolt belay at a stance. (Don't clip the second bolt in the chimney, unless you are aiding it) (.11+/.12-R) 90'
P3: Follow steep splitter tight hands up to fists for about 40 feet, which leads to a stance and where the blue collar offwidth begins. Follow the wide, steep system for about 60 feet (5.11) to where it backs off at a another traverse and leads to the top. (5.11+) 110', gear anchor
Rap the dodger original route. (A single 2x 60 meter rap)
P2: Run out chimney (5.8) and offwidth with a single 6 and green tube lead to a bolt (double length runner) at about 60 feet above the belay. This bolt marks where you must traverse out and around the corner to a blind bolt (shoulder length runner), and and into the tips to finger splitter above (11+/.12- or so). 2 bolt belay at a stance. (Don't clip the second bolt in the chimney, unless you are aiding it) (.11+/.12-R) 90'
P3: Follow steep splitter tight hands up to fists for about 40 feet, which leads to a stance and where the blue collar offwidth begins. Follow the wide, steep system for about 60 feet (5.11) to where it backs off at a another traverse and leads to the top. (5.11+) 110', gear anchor
Rap the dodger original route. (A single 2x 60 meter rap)
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