Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
North Face Crack
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in The Main Cliffs
|
|
Another Mindless Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Beached Whale Impersonation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Bear Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
Green Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
North Face Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
North Sneak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Pillars of Frenzy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Swab The Deck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Thin Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Walk The Plank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Whales Leave The Lats At Home S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | C. Chase, K. Lugbill, ~1980 |
| Page Views: | 860 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Details
Details
Detailed closure information can be found by visiting OSMP's Interactive Wildlife Closure map at osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This is a very good climb that might be 3* but for a few detractors. It certainly deserves a few more ascents than it gets and might clean up to be a 3* climb if it gets some traffic.
Start off belaying at the large evergreen on the North end of the Main Crag, just up and left of the bolt-and-sling anchors on 'Thin Crack.'
Head up some moderate and chunky terrain up some corners/flakes for 20+ feet to a ledge below a roof that rises up and rightward. Get up that ledge (#3 Camalot behind it for pro if desired), and then reach up and place protection under the roof behind the hanging flake and in the crack that splits it for a few moves. Use long slings at first, as you will be heading sharply to the right under the roof for a while. Jam and undercling to the right alternating high and low according to where the footholds are for a few body lengths, placing gear from 1" to 3" as you find it. Eventually, you come to a place where you have to head down and right, or up and right, either way to join a crack above that climbs up vertically to the top. Double down on protection under the flake/roof and choose a path. I chose high. This may have been correct or not.
Regardless, the climbing was good and somewhat exciting. I could/should have placed 2 pieces before this section or another up in the "notch" before pulling up into it rather than do the crux facing a 30' fall, but that's hindsight. Continue up and right to reach good footing and a very solid fingercrack and easier climbing. Place smaller gear, and head on up until the thin crack ends, then go up easier territory (wide, low angle) to the upper right, or back left on a flake and to the top up and left, again, on easier territory. The bolted anchor is the the left. I climbed the more obvious line to the right then went left at the top to reach the anchor, suggesting to my partner to clean the last piece, then go left for his own safety.
The anchor up top is good for a belay but not a rap.
Scramble off NE then NW on 5.4 to get back down (eventually) to the initial ledge and then the ground.
Start off belaying at the large evergreen on the North end of the Main Crag, just up and left of the bolt-and-sling anchors on 'Thin Crack.'
Head up some moderate and chunky terrain up some corners/flakes for 20+ feet to a ledge below a roof that rises up and rightward. Get up that ledge (#3 Camalot behind it for pro if desired), and then reach up and place protection under the roof behind the hanging flake and in the crack that splits it for a few moves. Use long slings at first, as you will be heading sharply to the right under the roof for a while. Jam and undercling to the right alternating high and low according to where the footholds are for a few body lengths, placing gear from 1" to 3" as you find it. Eventually, you come to a place where you have to head down and right, or up and right, either way to join a crack above that climbs up vertically to the top. Double down on protection under the flake/roof and choose a path. I chose high. This may have been correct or not.
Regardless, the climbing was good and somewhat exciting. I could/should have placed 2 pieces before this section or another up in the "notch" before pulling up into it rather than do the crux facing a 30' fall, but that's hindsight. Continue up and right to reach good footing and a very solid fingercrack and easier climbing. Place smaller gear, and head on up until the thin crack ends, then go up easier territory (wide, low angle) to the upper right, or back left on a flake and to the top up and left, again, on easier territory. The bolted anchor is the the left. I climbed the more obvious line to the right then went left at the top to reach the anchor, suggesting to my partner to clean the last piece, then go left for his own safety.
The anchor up top is good for a belay but not a rap.
Scramble off NE then NW on 5.4 to get back down (eventually) to the initial ledge and then the ground.
Location
When the North end of the main crack is viewed from the North side, a crack can be seen to split the face from the top of the center, dropping down and left with a wide crack, down to a section of vertical finger-crack, then further down and sharply left towards the ground under a traversing bulge. Climbing this in reverse the description above is the route.
0 Comments