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New Hampshire
> WM: Waterville…
> Welch & Dickey…
> Dickey Ledge
> 06. The Dark Side
Dark and Difficult Times
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in 06. The Dark Side
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Butt Scum T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dark and Difficult Times S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dark Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dark Mark, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dark Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Half Stack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hermits Hideout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lurking in the Bushes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lurking Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mojo Risin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Resident Evil T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Short Stack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Lee Hansche 10/11/16 |
| Page Views: | 1,054 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Oct 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I have a thing for climbing seemingly blank faces. I noticed this one after climbing Mojo. I was extremely happy as I explored closer and realized the entire line made perfect sense and for a 10 foot section had just barely enough holds to make it possible. As with most routes on this section there are a few sections that get a little crumbly but all the key holds seem plenty solid. I am really hoping to hear back from anyone who might try the line, curious about other folks solutions to the crux and opinion on the grade. All I am concerned with at this point is that it is super fun and all done :)
Due to the almost always wet section in the bottom 5 feet of the cliff I chose to sneak the climb in from the left side to avoid the grime. The route starts from the same launch point as Butt Scum, scramble up on to the ledge in the small corner. Enjoy this comfortable spot because the business begins... NOW! Climb right, around the corner on small feet and large underclings. Balance and dance up the wall as the holds get smaller and smaller. Eventually the face blanks out to nothing and the best option (I could find) is to jump straight left to a dream jug. (the jump feels a little spicy but the fall is quite safe. I checked). Mantle on to the jug and rest up. The route takes a turn for the steep at this point climbing fun moves through a few overlaps and eventually surmounting a spectacular mantle finish and the anchor.
Due to the almost always wet section in the bottom 5 feet of the cliff I chose to sneak the climb in from the left side to avoid the grime. The route starts from the same launch point as Butt Scum, scramble up on to the ledge in the small corner. Enjoy this comfortable spot because the business begins... NOW! Climb right, around the corner on small feet and large underclings. Balance and dance up the wall as the holds get smaller and smaller. Eventually the face blanks out to nothing and the best option (I could find) is to jump straight left to a dream jug. (the jump feels a little spicy but the fall is quite safe. I checked). Mantle on to the jug and rest up. The route takes a turn for the steep at this point climbing fun moves through a few overlaps and eventually surmounting a spectacular mantle finish and the anchor.
Location
This line is on the far right end of the dark side climbing the thin face and through the roofs between Butt Scum and Mojo Risin'. Start the climb by scrambling on to the ledge that starts Butt Scum. I stick clipped the first bolt and climbed directly in to the corner just left of the first bolt but I am unconcerned as to how you gain that first ledge. The real climb starts there.
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