Intergalactic Hitchhikers
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 30 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Todd Swain et al |
Page Views: | 1,426 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | SethG on Oct 10, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
This climb is listed as a variation to V-3 in Dick's guidebook, but except for the first fifteen feet up the initial slab it is completely independent of V-3.
Once you ascend the initial slab and reach the obvious, prominent left-facing corner, place bomber gear and commit to launching yourself up and around the corner. This is the 5.9+ crux and when you finish the move your gear will be at your feet.
Now you will be standing against a blank slab. There is a junky fixed pin up over your head and-- if you are tall enough-- you can clip it from the stance. If you are short like me (5' 6") you will have to make another thin move (crux number 2) to reach the pin, and there is good pro just above.
Climb up to the roof and figure out how to move up and right to get over it (crux number 3). Again your gear is below your feet as you escape the roof.
After the roof it is easy climbing up the slab and slightly left to the V-3 bolt anchor.
This climb is "just a variation" but it packs three interesting cruxes into its short duration. It is somewhat spicy, with no overhead pro for any of the cruxes. Recommended for those who feel solid at 5.9+.
Once you ascend the initial slab and reach the obvious, prominent left-facing corner, place bomber gear and commit to launching yourself up and around the corner. This is the 5.9+ crux and when you finish the move your gear will be at your feet.
Now you will be standing against a blank slab. There is a junky fixed pin up over your head and-- if you are tall enough-- you can clip it from the stance. If you are short like me (5' 6") you will have to make another thin move (crux number 2) to reach the pin, and there is good pro just above.
Climb up to the roof and figure out how to move up and right to get over it (crux number 3). Again your gear is below your feet as you escape the roof.
After the roof it is easy climbing up the slab and slightly left to the V-3 bolt anchor.
This climb is "just a variation" but it packs three interesting cruxes into its short duration. It is somewhat spicy, with no overhead pro for any of the cruxes. Recommended for those who feel solid at 5.9+.
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