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Routes in Pyramid Peak
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Stage Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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A Dream of Wind Horses T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Rockwork Orange T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Return to Forever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Charlie Beard and Matt Dobbs (Sept 18, 2015) |
| Page Views: | 2,774 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Matt D on Oct 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
p1 (5.6 pg, 30m) Straight up from the stage on friction, through a hollow sounding crescent, and slightly right past two edges (medium nuts, small cams) to a single fixed point of protection, then up on friction (5.6 PG) to a belay on natural gear in a large flaring crack (eats up cams medium to large) at the overlap.
p2 (5.7pg, 40m) Follow the wide flaring crack up through the overlap, then straight up on friction past 3 fixed points of protection spaced a couple body lengths apart, to a 2 fixed-point belay just left of the tree island. This belay is equipped for rappel.
p3 (5.6, 30-35m) Move up and right (5.6) to gain the left facing vegetated corner, and follow it up (5.0) to the overlap for a belay on natural gear.
p4 (5.4, 30-35m) Up through the overlap following the wide crack straight up to its end (lots of gear. Leave the crack system on friction up to a 2 fixed-point belay on the slab.
p5 (5.4 (5.2R), 60m rope stretcher) Straight up on friction past a fixed points of protection (5.4), then increasingly easy (5.2R) until crack and left-facing overlap with a natural gear belay in a flaring crack (save two 0.5-1” cams or tricams for the belay). This is a full 60m pitch, with no gear between the bolt and the crack.
p6 (5.3, 25m) Move up right over the overlap and traverse to the tree island.
p2 (5.7pg, 40m) Follow the wide flaring crack up through the overlap, then straight up on friction past 3 fixed points of protection spaced a couple body lengths apart, to a 2 fixed-point belay just left of the tree island. This belay is equipped for rappel.
p3 (5.6, 30-35m) Move up and right (5.6) to gain the left facing vegetated corner, and follow it up (5.0) to the overlap for a belay on natural gear.
p4 (5.4, 30-35m) Up through the overlap following the wide crack straight up to its end (lots of gear. Leave the crack system on friction up to a 2 fixed-point belay on the slab.
p5 (5.4 (5.2R), 60m rope stretcher) Straight up on friction past a fixed points of protection (5.4), then increasingly easy (5.2R) until crack and left-facing overlap with a natural gear belay in a flaring crack (save two 0.5-1” cams or tricams for the belay). This is a full 60m pitch, with no gear between the bolt and the crack.
p6 (5.3, 25m) Move up right over the overlap and traverse to the tree island.
Location
Approach: From the RHS of Pyramid’s South face (see “getting there”), where the bushwack emerges, scramble down, crossing the tree island, and across the bottom of the LHS slab to the prominent 30x20' "stage" (44.119516 north, -73.856856 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 591466 4885782) that sits at the bottom of the LHS and marks the start of Stage Show and the Mountaineers Route.
Descend by walking (2nd class) down the steep, grassy/treed tree island. Beware: raspberry bushes - tasty and sharp! Most parties will choose to make 2-3 short single rope rappels at the bottom (slings on trees). where the bushwack emerges, scramble down, crossing the tree island, and across the bottom of the LHS slab to the prominent 30x20' "stage" (44.119516 north, -73.856856 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 591466 4885782) that sits at the bottom of the LHS and marks the start of Stage Show and the Mountaineers Route, where the bushwack meets the face.
Descend by walking (2nd class) down the steep, grassy/treed tree island. Beware: raspberry bushes - tasty and sharp! Most parties will choose to make 2-3 short single rope rappels at the bottom (slings on trees). where the bushwack emerges, scramble down, crossing the tree island, and across the bottom of the LHS slab to the prominent 30x20' "stage" (44.119516 north, -73.856856 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 591466 4885782) that sits at the bottom of the LHS and marks the start of Stage Show and the Mountaineers Route, where the bushwack meets the face.
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