PRINT: Rock Climb The Ranch Hand, Joshua Tree National Park

The Ranch Hand

5.7, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 30 votes
FA: Frank Bentwood, Al Sanderson, Kelly Vaught, Bob Gaines, and Farai Muchenje, October, 2016.
California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > Vagmarken Hill > Vagmarken Hill… > (g) The Ranch

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Climb the left side of the pillar, starting just left of The Llama. Surprisingly moderate for its steepness, due to some incredibly featured rock.

This route may be the best on the crag in terms of rock quality.

Protection

6 bolts plus a camming device for a crack above the 6th bolt. There's a spot for a #3.5 or #4 camalot at the start of the crack/flake and a slot for a 2.5 inch CD a bit higher.

2-bolt anchor (65 ft.)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Liz contemplating the options for holds.

Frank Bentwood leading the first ascent of The Ranch Hand.<br>
<br>
photo by bob gaines

Frank Bentwood leading the first ascent of The Ranch Hand. photo by bob gaines

Opted to climb this route on our way out of the park. Did not disappoint!

Frank Bentwood on the first ascent of Ranch Hand.<br>
<br>
photo by bob gaines

Frank Bentwood on the first ascent of Ranch Hand. photo by bob gaines

Jennifer Mikklus on the Ranch Hand

Cal with the cool hand on Ranch Hand.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

D. Evans
Tustin, California

What a great route!!!...looks like 5.10 from the base. Nov 1, 2016

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

Best on the wall, fun climbing and probably the most solid of rock too. Nicely bolted with option for a 2.5" cam at the top before gaining the anchors. Consider long runners for top anchors if TR'ing, they're set back a bit. Nov 20, 2016

Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA

Lots of fun and easily leadable with only quick draws and no gear. I pulled off a microwave size block last week. Terrifying. There are lots of detached and soon to be detached sections on this whole wall. Be extremely careful where you pull. Jan 28, 2018

Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA

Fun climb! Feb 21, 2018

Lori Milas
Joshua Tree, CA

I had a lot of fun on this route today. I'm kind of new to steep face climbing, and it looked too hard from the base. But it was a great rock to climb and practice technique, and great views from the top, too! Dec 6, 2020