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Routes in Buzzard Rocks
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Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Anonymous Flake - Left Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Anonymous Flake Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ass Cannibal T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cortez the Killer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double Nickel TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Edge of Sunshine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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El Gordo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Goodnight Moon S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Half and Half T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Joaquin Phoenix V1+ 5 |
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Keep Off the Riff Raff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Melungian Brotherhood T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Perfect Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pulp Friction S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skating Party TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slope Surfer V7 7A+ |
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Slope Surfer Direct V5 6C |
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Sunrise Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunset Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown v0 V0 4 |
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Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mark Fletcher |
| Page Views: | 3,028 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Jensen on Oct 8, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This route goes up the right side of the slab. Try not to knock down the pile of pine needles and soil at the base otherwise the start will get harder. Go up the slab to a bolt and then gradually move right past two more bolts. Continue up past another bolt. Then move slightly left thorough sections with fingernail holds. There is a lot of lichen here, but with traffic the lichen will clean up. Move up to a steeper slab and reach up to clip a bolt. Mantle onto the top of the slab. Do not use the right edge of the slab, which is off route.
While there are two bolts on the ledge to the left, they are not ideal for belaying. Rather, walk up the slope about 30 feet and sling a tree to set up the belay anchor, which can be extended back to the top of the slab. This climb is deceptive in that it looks easy, but the holds are not very big. A single rope rappel from the two bolts will get you to the bottom.
First ascent: Mark Fletcher (rope solo), June 3, 2012.
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