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Routes in Savandurga Hill
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Beladingalu T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cloud Nine S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Deepavali T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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| Type: | Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jean Francois Hagenmuller |
| Page Views: | 1,528 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Gokul G on Sep 29, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Gokul G, Sandeep Bhagyawant, Gunkswest |
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Description
Belandingalu, in the local Kannada, means the light of the full moon. This fantastic line has one of the easier approaches of the routes that go up the main south face of Savandurga Hill. Seven pitches of mostly bolted climbing gets you on top of the giant granite monolith.
P1 (5.7): Follow a system of cracks/flakes to a bolted anchor on a ledgy area above the foliage. Protects well with stoppers and cams in the fingers to hand sizes.
P2: (5.9 PG13): Make a few delicate 5.9 moves from the anchors to bolts above, the grade eases after a couple bolts. The first bolt is about 10 ft up and to the right, and a fall here will not be good, due to the broken up ledges around the belay anchor. This is the psychological crux of the route.
P3, P4 (5.6-5.7): Easier climbing on slabby terrain with decent holds.
P5 (5.9+): This is the crux pitch for most people, with delicate technical climbing on small holds. Well bolted.
P6, P7 (5.6 and easier): The wall gets slabby and the climbing easier. P7 has no top anchors. I just went up a full rope length (60 m), and belayed from a giant cactus on mostly flat terrain. [Edit: This is no longer true - I'm told there are now top anchors on this pitch, and possibly an addition low-5th fifth.]
Unrope here and continue up third class slabs for a few more minutes. Continue mostly straight ahead to walk off down the pilgrim's path from near the structures on the summit.
P1 (5.7): Follow a system of cracks/flakes to a bolted anchor on a ledgy area above the foliage. Protects well with stoppers and cams in the fingers to hand sizes.
P2: (5.9 PG13): Make a few delicate 5.9 moves from the anchors to bolts above, the grade eases after a couple bolts. The first bolt is about 10 ft up and to the right, and a fall here will not be good, due to the broken up ledges around the belay anchor. This is the psychological crux of the route.
P3, P4 (5.6-5.7): Easier climbing on slabby terrain with decent holds.
P5 (5.9+): This is the crux pitch for most people, with delicate technical climbing on small holds. Well bolted.
P6, P7 (5.6 and easier): The wall gets slabby and the climbing easier. P7 has no top anchors. I just went up a full rope length (60 m), and belayed from a giant cactus on mostly flat terrain. [Edit: This is no longer true - I'm told there are now top anchors on this pitch, and possibly an addition low-5th fifth.]
Unrope here and continue up third class slabs for a few more minutes. Continue mostly straight ahead to walk off down the pilgrim's path from near the structures on the summit.
Location
See map and pictures. Park near the post office and follow the path right, past the house at the edge of the woods, through the trees, up some boulders and up the slab beyond. Aim for the system of flakes at the start of the climb.
Protection
A light rack of cams (singles in finger to hand sizes) and stoppers. A dozen shoulder length slings (some draws would be fine).
P1 is well protected by gear (no bolts until the anchors). No gear for the other pitches - most are pretty well bolted, but don't expect a "sport climb". You might be able to sling some shrubbery on the final pitch. Except for the final pitch, all pitches have bolted anchors (some bolts might need replacement relatively soon). Don't recall if there were maillons/quicklinks. Maybe carry a couple, or some leaver biners if bailing might be necessary.
P1 is well protected by gear (no bolts until the anchors). No gear for the other pitches - most are pretty well bolted, but don't expect a "sport climb". You might be able to sling some shrubbery on the final pitch. Except for the final pitch, all pitches have bolted anchors (some bolts might need replacement relatively soon). Don't recall if there were maillons/quicklinks. Maybe carry a couple, or some leaver biners if bailing might be necessary.
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