Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Evan Powers, Oct 2023. Equipped: JD Merritt.
Page Views: 2,191 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jayson Nissen on Sep 25, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This was the first route bolted at the Garden Cliffs. It took many years to see a send, partially because it is a drainage line, and almost always soaking wet. It climbs a beautiful black arete feature.

Starts in a small hueco at first bolt. "Chimeras" cuts left, "Heirloom" cuts right to the arete.

Pull a couple tough moves to get out of the hueco, then navigate to the arete where some fun compression style climbing begins.

The compression ends quickly at the doubled up 3rd bolt, where you encounter a power move to an OK jug.

Here you'll be faced with a sloper ledge and a few moves I considered to be the most difficult to read, and possibly the redpoint crux.

The bolt line splits at this point. "P.R.O.M." follows easy terrain on the right for the final few bolts. "Heirloom LEFT" cuts left, looks very blank, and is still a project. These rusted bolts still need replacement.

Location Suggest change

Starts on the ledge above the lowest area. There is a fourth class ramp about 20 feet left of the start or a crack that runs directly up to it. Both tend to be dirty. You can also traverse the ledge in carefully from "Wildlings".

Protection Suggest change

7 new stainless bolts, chain anchors with biners. Also one belayer bolt.

Some of the original Heirloom project bolts have been left in, partly for ease of dogging and partly in case the left exit ever goes. Be aware that they are in bad shape and will eventually need replacement.

Photos

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